[R-390] R-390 Digest, Vol 185, Issue 5

Thu Sep 12 18:16:58 EDT 2019

Best of luck...here for sure. Folks around here know what they are worth and how to make them work.

I haven’t even seen those prices on eBay lately unless they were fully restored by one of the big named restorers.

But every now and then someone comes along and bites...

Cecil
K5DL

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 12, 2019, at 4:53 PM, wb3fau55 at neo.rr.com wrote:
> 
> Folks, i have a local friend with a R-390A Collins contract very good
> orig cond. He wants$1000. My self, i have a Motorola contract S/N 30
> excellent cond. Negotable price around 1000. Send email, we can talk.
> Russ wb3fau. 
> 
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> Sent: Thursday September 12 2019 2:51:24PM
> Subject: R-390 Digest, Vol 185, Issue 5
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> End of R-390 Digest, Vol 185, Issue 5
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 11:23:53 -0400
> From: dog <agfa at hughes.net>
> To: r-390 at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [R-390] General valuation?
> Message-ID: <32d900dd-dae5-a090-a842-baadfeb758f2 at hughes.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Generally worth what someone is prepared to pay. I've got a couple
> too 
> I'd like to sell, but I'm not giving them away at the moment. It may 
> come to that.
> 
>> On 9/12/2019 09:40, Reuben Popp wrote:
>> Good morning all,
>> 
>> Quick question for the group.
>> 
>> What is the general consensus on the price for a R390A in very good
> shape
>> (with meters), in a restored CY-979A cabinet? I have a lead on such
> a
>> unit; I have been told it is in great shape in the cabinet and was
> working
>> when last used. However, it has not been powered on for the past
> few years.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>> Reuben A. Popp
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 11:51:00 -0700
> From: Dan Merz <mdmerz at frontier.com>
> To: Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com>
> Cc: R-390 Forum <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [R-390] White lines on knobs and more
> Message-ID: <46C23669-4793-4C06-8144-B9BB8AE24487 at frontier.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Hi, I think you are chasing the wrong animal trying to get oxide off
> of aluminum. Maybe it would be better to say that you would like an
> even oxide on the knob. Aluminum has a tremendous affinity for oxygen
> and will immediately form an oxide skin in air. So use whatever method
> to get a clean, smooth surface, e.g. bead blasting, NaOH etch,
> mechanical sanding, scotch-Brite, etc., and don?t be stuck on the idea
> that you are going to remove aluminum oxide, which will form right
> away. I?m not familiar with all the possible ways aluminum surfaces
> can be treated, some of which likely produce more complex coatings,
> and I believe Bonderite must work pretty well when applied in the
> manner described as a base for subsequent painting. I believe it
> produces a chromate surface coating which aids paint adhesion. Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad Air2
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2019, at 5:55 PM, Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thank you, John, for the nice explanation. Your R-390 panels look
> very
>> nice.
>> 
>> Question - would sanding the knobs remove the oxide well enough? Is
> there
>> an easy way to tell if the oxide has been removed?
>> 
>> Regards, Larry
>> 
>>> On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 1:53 PM John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The whole idea is to get the surface coating of aluminum oxide
> off. For
>>> the knobs, I bead blasted them. For panels and what not, scotch
> brite
>>> followed by a quick dip in diluted metal ?prep and etch? available
> from
>>> Home Depot.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The coating I speak of is what Collins et al used for a surface
> treatment
>>> on unpainted aluminim like chassis panels, the Utah plate, etc.
> So,
>>> getting up to speed with Bonderite gives you not only the ability
> to prime
>>> for painting but to restore coated parts in the radio as well. I
> have done
>>> several unpainted panels and covers on my radios using this
> method. I used
>>> scotch brite brushed in one direction carefully to clean off the
> old
>>> conversion coating the OEM put on and also to duplicate the
> brushed finish
>>> they had originally.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I?ve attached a pic of my R390 inside. All the covers shown have
> been
>>> restored using this method?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> *From:* Larry H <larry41gm at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 7, 2019 5:47 PM
>>> *To:* John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
>>> *Cc:* R-390 Forum <r-390 at mailman.qth.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [R-390] White lines on knobs and more
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks John, Good to know about your new method. I was wondering,
> how do
>>> you clean and deoxidize the aluminum in prep for the dip?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Regards, Larry
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 9:52 AM John Gedde <jgedde at optonline.net>
> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Larry,
>>> 
>>> It looks great! I have moved away from using a spray primer on
> aluminum
>>> prior to paint in favor of a chromate conversion coating. Loctite
>>> Bonderite is what I use. It's what we use at work for spaceborne
>>> mechanisms that get painted or aluminum surfaces that remain bare
>>> (non-anodized). I've never had any issues with adhesion using this
> stuff.
>>> Basically you clean and deoxidize the aluminum, dip it in
> Bonderite for a
>>> minute or so, rinse and let dry. The aluminum turns a golden color
> and
>>> paint readily adheres to it if you spray within 24 hours. The
> coating is
>>> also known by other names: ChemFilm, Alodyne, Iridite, etc.
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> 
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