[Milsurplus] ART-13 DY-17 U10?

[Michael Hanz]

As others have noted, there is a small relief in the aluminum shell into 
which you insert a small pointy thing.  If the previous tech did it 
right, the end of the ring should be quite close to the relief.  If not, 
be sure to put it back that way when you return it to the shell.

I use a jeweler's screwdriver, but also have a second tiny screwdriver 
to help.  Once you get the ring to compress inward away from its groove, 
then insert the second screwdriver into the gap to keep the ring from 
snapping back into the groove.  Then begin moving the first screwdriver 
on around the inside of the aluminum shell, using the second screwdriver 
to keep raising the snap ring away from the groove and away from the 
phenolic.  Eventually you'll get the snap ring to the point where you 
won't need the second screwdriver and it will come out.  Wear safety 
glasses!

I use a watch repair vise on a heavy steel plate to hold the shell. It's 
the greatest thing since sliced bread to make cables.  With four posts 
it won't crush the connector like a machine vise.  They are very 
inexpensive.  Something like this, though there are a lot of variations:


           73,
  - Mike  KC4TOS


On 5/28/2022 3:32 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon wrote:
> Others here will have more, and more accurate info, but as I remember it, there was some
> discussion on this very topic some years ago.
>
> The insert can swell over the years, making it almost impossible to remove.
>
> I think either or both Dave Stinson and Robert Downs were involved in that earlier discussion.
> Maybe Mike Hanz also.
>
> Ken W7EKB
>
> On 28 May 2022 at 19:05, W2HX wrote:
>
>>      Hello all,
>>       
>>      I am working on wiring up this DY-17 dynamotor for use with the ART-13.
>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10.jpg
>>       
>>      Working to solder up U-10 for the DC input to the dyno, I have removed the back shell/strain
>>      relief to access the solder cups. The cups are pretty deep inside and so I also removed 3 screws
>>      around the perimeter that appear to allow one to remove the middle shell to give more room
>>      to access the solder cups.
>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10b.jpg  (you can see one screw removed)
>>       
>>      However, for the life of me, I can´t get the middle shell to separate from the contact block of
>>      the connector. What am I doing wrong? When I look down inside, I see something that could
>>      possible be a snap ring, but there are no places to grip the ring to retract it, and even if I use a
>>      screw driver I can´t get it to move or anything. Maybe it isn´t a snap ring.
>>       
>>      Here is the inside:
>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/U-10a.jpg
>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10c.jpg
>>       
>>      Is there a secret to separating this?
>>      Thanks
>>       
>>       
>>      73 Eugene W2HX
>>      Subscribe to my Youtube Channel:https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos
>>       
>>
>>
>
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-- 
Michael Hanz - KC4TOS
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