[Milsurplus] ART-13 DY-17 U10?

[Michael Hanz]

Here's a better view of the process:


On 5/28/2022 4:34 PM, Michael Hanz wrote:
> As others have noted, there is a small relief in the aluminum shell 
> into which you insert a small pointy thing.  If the previous tech did 
> it right, the end of the ring should be quite close to the relief.  If 
> not, be sure to put it back that way when you return it to the shell.
>
> I use a jeweler's screwdriver, but also have a second tiny screwdriver 
> to help.  Once you get the ring to compress inward away from its 
> groove, then insert the second screwdriver into the gap to keep the 
> ring from snapping back into the groove.  Then begin moving the first 
> screwdriver on around the inside of the aluminum shell, using the 
> second screwdriver to keep raising the snap ring away from the groove 
> and away from the phenolic. Eventually you'll get the snap ring to the 
> point where you won't need the second screwdriver and it will come 
> out.  Wear safety glasses!
>
> I use a watch repair vise on a heavy steel plate to hold the shell.  
> It's the greatest thing since sliced bread to make cables.  With four 
> posts it won't crush the connector like a machine vise.  They are very 
> inexpensive.  Something like this, though there are a lot of variations:
>
>
>           73,
>  - Mike  KC4TOS
>
>
> On 5/28/2022 3:32 PM, Kenneth G. Gordon wrote:
>> Others here will have more, and more accurate info, but as I remember it, there was some
>> discussion on this very topic some years ago.
>>
>> The insert can swell over the years, making it almost impossible to remove.
>>
>> I think either or both Dave Stinson and Robert Downs were involved in that earlier discussion.
>> Maybe Mike Hanz also.
>>
>> Ken W7EKB
>>
>> On 28 May 2022 at 19:05, W2HX wrote:
>>
>>>      Hello all,
>>>       
>>>      I am working on wiring up this DY-17 dynamotor for use with the ART-13.
>>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10.jpg
>>>       
>>>      Working to solder up U-10 for the DC input to the dyno, I have removed the back shell/strain
>>>      relief to access the solder cups. The cups are pretty deep inside and so I also removed 3 screws
>>>      around the perimeter that appear to allow one to remove the middle shell to give more room
>>>      to access the solder cups.
>>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10b.jpg  (you can see one screw removed)
>>>       
>>>      However, for the life of me, I can´t get the middle shell to separate from the contact block of
>>>      the connector. What am I doing wrong? When I look down inside, I see something that could
>>>      possible be a snap ring, but there are no places to grip the ring to retract it, and even if I use a
>>>      screw driver I can´t get it to move or anything. Maybe it isn´t a snap ring.
>>>       
>>>      Here is the inside:
>>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/U-10a.jpg
>>>      https://w2hx.com/x/ART-13/u-10c.jpg
>>>       
>>>      Is there a secret to separating this?
>>>      Thanks
>>>       
>>>       
>>>      73 Eugene W2HX
>>>      Subscribe to my Youtube Channel:https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos
>>>       
>>>
>>>
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>
> -- 
> Michael Hanz - KC4TOS
>
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-- 
Michael Hanz - KC4TOS
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