[Hallicrafters] Re: Cleaning up old equipment

[thierry.stora at cegetel.net]

Hi readers,

my prefered cleaning agent for this kind of job - vintage electronic
equipment - is definitely pure methanol, also named industrial alchool.

I apply it with nylon brushes of the required size/shape and with crocus
cloth - Scotch Brite pads.

Wonderful result when brushed on ceramic wafers.

Beware of fumes, very flamable and intoxicating, use only in open area,
with no smoker, spark source or open flame around.

I have found it absolutely safe for waxed coils and the electronic
components  used in our old radio gears. Avoid transparent or translucent
plastics, ink markings and painted parts.

Regards,

Thierry
>
>
>
>> I've mentioned this "magic elixer" before.  It is
>> great for cleaning up corrsion on chassis.
>>
>> A penetrating oil called P-B Blaster, sold in
>> automotive supply stores, is the first step.  Use it
>> SPARINGLY.  Do not hose down the chassis.  Put the
>> stuff on a cotton ball or cotton swab or paper towel,
>> and S-C-R-U-B.  It will break up the corrosion quite
>> nicely.  Sometimes you might have to wipe the stuff
>> on, then let it sit for a couple or three minutes,
>> then scrub it.  This gives it time to soften the
>> corrosion.
>>
>> DON'T get P-B Blaster into coils, transformers or --
>> especially - dials.  It will attack wax insulation,
>> and will destroy dial graphics.
>>
>> P-B Blaster is also good for cleaning old, dry, hard
>> grease out of variable capacitor bearing races and
>> dial drives.  You have to re-lube them of course.
>> This can easily be done using "LaBelle #2 Gear Oil," a
>> product sold in model railroad shops.  It comes in a 2
>> ounce plastic bottle with a syringe-type applicator
>> tube and is quite viscous.  It will stay where you put
>> it, for a long time.
>>
>> After you've done the scrubbing with the P-B Blaster,
>> use Nevr-Dull cotton wadding type metal polish -- also
>> found in automotive stores -- for the final cleaning.
>> Again, S-C-R-U-B.
>>
>> Be careful, as the fumes from both these products but
>> more so the P-B Blaster, are quite strong.  I suspect
>> both are flammable as well.  Use them in a
>> well-ventilated place.
>>
>> If you're timid and/or P-B Blaster scares you, Liquid
>> Wrench does a fair job but takes longer.  Liquid
>> Wrench is also flammable.
>>
>> It takes work, but this combination will bring even
>> heavily corroded metal back from the dead to shine
>> like new.  It will also work on LIGHT rust, to a
>> point.
>>
>> A really great product for cleaning light to moderate
>> rust, though, is "Chrome-Glo," a paste-type metal
>> polish sold in motorcycle shops.  Put it on a rag and
>> S-C-R-U-B.  Amazing.
>>
>> For really heavy rust the only thing to do is use
>> sandpaper, or abrasive tools in a Dremel.  Or, get
>> something to use for a scraper, and S-C-R-A-P-E.  I
>> know of no chemical that will get heavy, pitting rust
>> down to bright metal.
>>
>> The best thing to do is stay away from rust-bucket
>> radios, in the first place....
>>
>> For cleaning out the crevices between IF cans, etc.,
>> the best thing I have found is the long cotton swabs
>> commonly sold for cleaning video heads.  Get the ones
>> with wood shafts because the cleaning agents will
>> soften cardboard.
>>
>> I have also used paper towels, Nevr-Dull, or cotton
>> balls on the end of a wooden or plastic stick for
>> this.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Mike
>> WA4DLF
>>
>>
>>
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