[Hallicrafters] Re: Cleaning up old equipment

Roger K8RI hallicraftersgroup at rogerhalstead.com
Sun Jul 30 17:23:06 EDT 2006




> I've mentioned this "magic elixer" before.  It is
> great for cleaning up corrsion on chassis.
> 
> A penetrating oil called P-B Blaster, sold in
> automotive supply stores, is the first step.  Use it
> SPARINGLY.  Do not hose down the chassis.  Put the
> stuff on a cotton ball or cotton swab or paper towel,
> and S-C-R-U-B.  It will break up the corrosion quite
> nicely.  Sometimes you might have to wipe the stuff
> on, then let it sit for a couple or three minutes,
> then scrub it.  This gives it time to soften the
> corrosion.
> 
> DON'T get P-B Blaster into coils, transformers or --
> especially - dials.  It will attack wax insulation,
> and will destroy dial graphics.
> 
> P-B Blaster is also good for cleaning old, dry, hard
> grease out of variable capacitor bearing races and
> dial drives.  You have to re-lube them of course. 
> This can easily be done using "LaBelle #2 Gear Oil," a
> product sold in model railroad shops.  It comes in a 2
> ounce plastic bottle with a syringe-type applicator
> tube and is quite viscous.  It will stay where you put
> it, for a long time.
> 
> After you've done the scrubbing with the P-B Blaster,
> use Nevr-Dull cotton wadding type metal polish -- also
> found in automotive stores -- for the final cleaning. 
> Again, S-C-R-U-B.  
> 
> Be careful, as the fumes from both these products but
> more so the P-B Blaster, are quite strong.  I suspect
> both are flammable as well.  Use them in a
> well-ventilated place.
> 
> If you're timid and/or P-B Blaster scares you, Liquid
> Wrench does a fair job but takes longer.  Liquid
> Wrench is also flammable.
> 
> It takes work, but this combination will bring even
> heavily corroded metal back from the dead to shine
> like new.  It will also work on LIGHT rust, to a
> point.  
> 
> A really great product for cleaning light to moderate
> rust, though, is "Chrome-Glo," a paste-type metal
> polish sold in motorcycle shops.  Put it on a rag and
> S-C-R-U-B.  Amazing.
> 
> For really heavy rust the only thing to do is use
> sandpaper, or abrasive tools in a Dremel.  Or, get
> something to use for a scraper, and S-C-R-A-P-E.  I
> know of no chemical that will get heavy, pitting rust
> down to bright metal.
> 
> The best thing to do is stay away from rust-bucket
> radios, in the first place....
> 
> For cleaning out the crevices between IF cans, etc.,
> the best thing I have found is the long cotton swabs
> commonly sold for cleaning video heads.  Get the ones
> with wood shafts because the cleaning agents will
> soften cardboard.
> 
> I have also used paper towels, Nevr-Dull, or cotton
> balls on the end of a wooden or plastic stick for
> this.
> 
> 73
> 
> Mike
> WA4DLF
> 
> 
> 
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