[Hallicrafters] Re: Cleaning up old equipment
Roger K8RI
hallicraftersgroup at rogerhalstead.com
Sun Jul 30 17:23:06 EDT 2006
> I've mentioned this "magic elixer" before. It is
> great for cleaning up corrsion on chassis.
>
> A penetrating oil called P-B Blaster, sold in
> automotive supply stores, is the first step. Use it
> SPARINGLY. Do not hose down the chassis. Put the
> stuff on a cotton ball or cotton swab or paper towel,
> and S-C-R-U-B. It will break up the corrosion quite
> nicely. Sometimes you might have to wipe the stuff
> on, then let it sit for a couple or three minutes,
> then scrub it. This gives it time to soften the
> corrosion.
>
> DON'T get P-B Blaster into coils, transformers or --
> especially - dials. It will attack wax insulation,
> and will destroy dial graphics.
>
> P-B Blaster is also good for cleaning old, dry, hard
> grease out of variable capacitor bearing races and
> dial drives. You have to re-lube them of course.
> This can easily be done using "LaBelle #2 Gear Oil," a
> product sold in model railroad shops. It comes in a 2
> ounce plastic bottle with a syringe-type applicator
> tube and is quite viscous. It will stay where you put
> it, for a long time.
>
> After you've done the scrubbing with the P-B Blaster,
> use Nevr-Dull cotton wadding type metal polish -- also
> found in automotive stores -- for the final cleaning.
> Again, S-C-R-U-B.
>
> Be careful, as the fumes from both these products but
> more so the P-B Blaster, are quite strong. I suspect
> both are flammable as well. Use them in a
> well-ventilated place.
>
> If you're timid and/or P-B Blaster scares you, Liquid
> Wrench does a fair job but takes longer. Liquid
> Wrench is also flammable.
>
> It takes work, but this combination will bring even
> heavily corroded metal back from the dead to shine
> like new. It will also work on LIGHT rust, to a
> point.
>
> A really great product for cleaning light to moderate
> rust, though, is "Chrome-Glo," a paste-type metal
> polish sold in motorcycle shops. Put it on a rag and
> S-C-R-U-B. Amazing.
>
> For really heavy rust the only thing to do is use
> sandpaper, or abrasive tools in a Dremel. Or, get
> something to use for a scraper, and S-C-R-A-P-E. I
> know of no chemical that will get heavy, pitting rust
> down to bright metal.
>
> The best thing to do is stay away from rust-bucket
> radios, in the first place....
>
> For cleaning out the crevices between IF cans, etc.,
> the best thing I have found is the long cotton swabs
> commonly sold for cleaning video heads. Get the ones
> with wood shafts because the cleaning agents will
> soften cardboard.
>
> I have also used paper towels, Nevr-Dull, or cotton
> balls on the end of a wooden or plastic stick for
> this.
>
> 73
>
> Mike
> WA4DLF
>
>
>
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