[Hallicrafters] Re: Cleaning up old equipment

[Roger K8RI]

Hmmmm Not sure why this already replied as I hadn't hit the send button 
yet...as I hadn't even typed anything yet.

This is a bit off topic but not all that far as it does deal with "old", or 
"aged" equipment even that age is a bit premature.

> I've mentioned this "magic elixer" before.  It is
> great for cleaning up corrsion on chassis.
>
> A penetrating oil called P-B Blaster, sold in
> automotive supply stores, is the first step.  Use it
> SPARINGLY.  Do not hose down the chassis.  Put the

Depends on what you are using PB Blaster for.  I agree to use sparingly on 
chassis.

> DON'T get P-B Blaster into coils, transformers or --
> especially - dials.  It will attack wax insulation,
> and will destroy dial graphics.

And keep it away from this stupff.
>
> P-B Blaster is also good for cleaning old, dry, hard
> grease out of variable capacitor bearing races and
> dial drives.

Remember though that unlike most penetrating oils, PB-Blaster does not 
evaporate and it is a lubricant by itself. So in some instances it can be 
used as the lube. Again it depends on the location.

>You have to re-lube them of course.
> This can easily be done using "LaBelle #2 Gear Oil," a
> product sold in model railroad shops.  It comes in a 2
> ounce plastic bottle with a syringe-type applicator
> tube and is quite viscous.  It will stay where you put
> it, for a long time.
>
> After you've done the scrubbing with the P-B Blaster,
> use Nevr-Dull cotton wadding type metal polish -- also
> found in automotive stores -- for the final cleaning.
> Again, S-C-R-U-B.

Here I'd caution about scrubing.  With many on the old rigs like the HT-32 
and SX-101 series the chassis has been alodined (sp?).  Alodine is thin and 
very fragile.  Even on a new chassis you can scrub that gold color off with 
nothing more than a dry paper towel.  OTOH if the chassis is in bad enough 
shape to require rust removal you don't have a lot to lose if the Alodine 
come soff.  The chassis can be realodined which is a *relatively* simple 
process, but it takes a lot of washing and a lot of care if the components 
are still attached.$20 worth of chemicals will do qite a few chassis and 
parts.

>
> Be careful, as the fumes from both these products but

I'd not be too concerned with PB-Blaster fumes (smells kinda sweet) unless 
working in a small, enclosed space with poor ventilation. I didn't think it 
was very aeromatic and I have a very sensitive nose.

Another use for BP-Blaster is getting things apart.  I have a very heavy 
duty rotator that is a dual worm gear drive.  The output shaft is pressed, 
keyed, and hald in place  inside the drive gear with a snap ring.  Needless 
to say with all three holding it's difficult to get apart and removing that 
snap ring doesn't seem to make much difference if you don't have a hydraulic 
press<:-))

Getting the rotator apart is a long story, but to make it short, without a 
good penetrating oil like PB-Blaster it would not have come apart.

Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com (Use return address from here)
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