[Hallicrafters] Sizing of Electrolytics
Rich Oliver
Rich.Oliver at lowell.edu
Fri Aug 23 15:37:42 EDT 2002
Jim,
George and Glen are correct about the caps. I was considering making
the comment about filter input inrush current issues but Jim beat me to
that. As a practical matter it shouldn't cause you any problems.
As for whether to restore or part a set, to me the decision depends on a
couple of factors. First is cosmetic condition. If it is bent, has
many broken or missing parts, or has more than a little surface rust
that argues for parting. I don't care much about the internal
condition; I can fix that.
The other key factor is desirability of the set. If I had a
Hallicrafters S-1 basket case I would bust my buns to restore it. At
the other extreme an S-120 it will need to be in a factory-sealed box to
get me interested. An S-40A is closer to the S-120 end of the
desirability continuum than the S-1 end.
To be sure I rarely actually part out a set. I just assign it a spot on
the restoration list where I won't get around to it till about 20 years
after I'm dead and stick it back on the shelf. There it sits till
somebody comes along who needs it.
73, Rich, KC9GQ
Jim Roik wrote:
> I am sure this question has been asked numerous times, so apologize for
> asking the N + 1 the time.
>
> I need to replace the filter capacitor in my S40A and am wondering what
> latitude is permissible on the value of the electrolytic. There is a 30
> - 10 - 10 in the S40A and I have a 40 - 40 - 40 available. Do I dare?
>
> It hurts buying a filter can for almost the value of the set. Working on
> this type of set gives new meaning to the expression that it is worth
> more dead than alive. At what point do most of you give up on the repair
> and just decide to part the set out? It seems to me, that as abhorrent
> as the thought is, the set is not worth much intact while humming (it
> only knows the one note), yet if I take parts off it and sell them, it
> is worth far more.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
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