[Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems.  It is a half wave 
on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune.
I quote from the T1 manual:
"Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to
use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground, 
you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver, 
tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc."

I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short 
counterpoise wire.  If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely 
need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:
> Thanks Don.
>
> In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self test sending code for each value.
>
> The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch paddle to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying different tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady tone, steady green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try different tunings and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like it use to.   I ran the self test and the blinking yellow light showed the following results.
>
> S=1R0,        SWR
> V=8R9,        BATTERY VOLTAGE
> L=0,             INDUCTANCE
> C=0,             CAPACITANCE
> N=t,              NETWORK CONFIG
> B=0,              BAND ID
> F=1R07          FIRMWARE  REVISION
>
> Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time:
> D1:  122/0
> D2:  122/0
> R3:   120 / 117
> R4:   120  / 117
> R5:   118  /  0
> R6:   118  /  0
>
> Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then swapping neg for pos & vice versa,
> D1:  122 / 79
> D2:  122 / 79
>
>> On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm
>> S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07
>
>
>
>
> --
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