[Elecraft] T1 as stopped tuning correctly.

[Steve-KI4EZL]

Thanks Don.

The antenna that I am using is the UltiMax 100 End Fed antenna with a 33' wire which all came from the factory as is.  It has been a super antenna, worked lots of state side and DX with it and the MTR 5b radio tuning with the T1.  I just spent a week with it up in the Smokes.  It was hung off a 31' Jakite fiberglass extendable pole mounted up on the rear ladder of my motorhome, about 35' in the air.

Thanks for helping, I appreciate it.  

I heard from Gary at tech support, moments ago, and he had me test some things.  He thinks that there are a couple diodes gone, and offered to fix it if I send it in.  I also just ordered a second T1 to use when I break one of the tuners.  I have big stuff, but don't care to use them with my little qrp radios.

Thanks again for your help.

I have very recently purchase several little kits from Elecraft, to learn how to build and fix on.  I also want to try building a very basic kit radio, then a K1.  I have all the recommended tools, the adjustable Weller solder station, magnification lens and light, proper solder, etc...  Hopefully, I will soon have the skill to handle this type of small repair job on my toys.  

I have a very nice K2 that is loaded, several little elecraft kits, and want to build a K1 soon.  I am also saving up for a new factory built K3s.  

Take care Don,

Thanks again,

Steve
KI4EZL

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 3:51 PM, Don Wilhelm [via Elecraft] <ml-node+s365791n7621386h65 at n2.nabble.com> wrote:
> 
> Steve, 
> 
> That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems.  It is a half wave 
> on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune. 
> I quote from the T1 manual: 
> "Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to 
> use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground, 
> you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver, 
> tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc." 
> 
> I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short 
> counterpoise wire.  If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely 
> need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet. 
> 
> 73, 
> Don W3FPR 
> 
> On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:
> 
> > Thanks Don. 
> > 
> > In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self test sending code for each value. 
> > 
> > The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch paddle to start 2nd step of tune mode.  Normally it moves around trying different tunings and latches on to the best one.  Now, it just has steady tone, steady green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try different tunings and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like it use to.   I ran the self test and the blinking yellow light showed the following results. 
> > 
> > S=1R0,        SWR 
> > V=8R9,        BATTERY VOLTAGE 
> > L=0,             INDUCTANCE 
> > C=0,             CAPACITANCE 
> > N=t,              NETWORK CONFIG 
> > B=0,              BAND ID 
> > F=1R07          FIRMWARE  REVISION 
> > 
> > Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab.  No battery in device tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time: 
> > D1:  122/0 
> > D2:  122/0 
> > R3:   120 / 117 
> > R4:   120  / 117 
> > R5:   118  /  0 
> > R6:   118  /  0 
> > 
> > Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then swapping neg for pos & vice versa, 
> > D1:  122 / 79 
> > D2:  122 / 79 
> > 
> >> On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> >> S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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