[Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[Brett gazdzinski]

 So true.
I have no idea how calibrated my station is, I ran around
650 to 700 degrees F, where the solder melted correctly.
That is the big thing, the solder melts and flows at the correct rate.

To slow and you damage parts from holding the heat on too long, 
even though its a lower temp. You can also get cold joints.

To hot and you damage things.

I turn it up to strip toroid wires and for big parts or big
solder pads, I turn it down for little parts.

I figure all parts have some thermal mass, so I try to keep the 
soldering as quick as possible without excessive heat.
The average soldering time for resistors and small caps, ic chip
pins, was under 1 second I think.

I let toroid wires cook a bit....they wont be hurt by heat.

I built the K2, the antenna tuner, the 100 watt amp, all very
quickly, without a single solder problem.

One trick I did do with the toroids was to NOT cut off the
excess wire, but ran it along the trace to the next solder pad
and also solder it there.

More connection spots, plus extra wire if needed in the future.
Since the wire runs over the trace on the board, it causes no 
problems...

Brett
N2DTS



> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: Ian Stirling
> Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 936?
> 
> Ian,
> 
> You have already received some starting point temperatures.
> There are no really hard and fast rules - watch the solder 
> connections 
> for a while, especially watch to see how long it takes for 
> the solder to 
> flow out smoothly onto the solder pad.  If that time is longer than 3 
> seconds, increase the heat a bit, but if it is less than 2 seconds, 
> reduce the heat.
> Different boards will require different temperatures - those 
> with small 
> traces will need less heat, but those with large traces and 
> an extensive 
> ground plane (like the KPA100) require more.
> 
> When working with thru-plated boards, strive to produce a 
> tiny fillet of 
> solder that has a concave surface.  If the solder surface is 
> convex, all 
> the solder may be stuck to the component lead and the solder 
> pad did not 
> receive enough heat (besides that, too much solder is already 
> applied).
> 
> The soldering tutorial on the Builder's Resource page at the Elecraft 
> website has a lot of good information that you may want to review.
> 
> SMD soldering usually does not require as much heat as lead thru hole 
> construction, but the principle is the same - watch for the solder to 
> flow and keep that time short. 
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> Ian Stirling wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> >
> >   My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
> > components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
> >  I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
> > I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
> > well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
> > So,  my questions:
> >  What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
> > a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
> > an AD9851?
> >
> > 73,
> > Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
> > --
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