[Elecraft] Hakko 936?

[Don Wilhelm]

Ian,

You have already received some starting point temperatures.
There are no really hard and fast rules - watch the solder connections 
for a while, especially watch to see how long it takes for the solder to 
flow out smoothly onto the solder pad.  If that time is longer than 3 
seconds, increase the heat a bit, but if it is less than 2 seconds, 
reduce the heat.
Different boards will require different temperatures - those with small 
traces will need less heat, but those with large traces and an extensive 
ground plane (like the KPA100) require more.

When working with thru-plated boards, strive to produce a tiny fillet of 
solder that has a concave surface.  If the solder surface is convex, all 
the solder may be stuck to the component lead and the solder pad did not 
receive enough heat (besides that, too much solder is already applied).

The soldering tutorial on the Builder's Resource page at the Elecraft 
website has a lot of good information that you may want to review.

SMD soldering usually does not require as much heat as lead thru hole 
construction, but the principle is the same - watch for the solder to 
flow and keep that time short. 

73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Stirling wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
>   My Hakko 936 with several T-1 for surface mounted tiny
> components arrived today.  It is not warm yet.
>  I have been using an Antex 15 Watt iron since 1971, and
> I built my K2 #4962 with it.   Now, variable temperature is,
> well, a variable that I have never had to consider.
> So,  my questions:
>  What temperature do you set with 60/40 solder on such as
> a K2, and perhaps a different temperature when soldering
> an AD9851?
>
> 73,
> Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
> --
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