[Elecraft] Notes to new K2 builders - Part 4

[Bill Tippett]

	I've now completed #4119 and it seems to
be working fine, although I need to tweak the Filters
better than the first pass using the Manual without
Spectrogram.  Also I can't tell much difference with
NB on or off but I have a fairly quiet location.  Will
reserve judgement until I use it a bit more.

	If you remember Part 3, I had a problem with
both side panels not being masked except for the
bottom two holes where connections to the RF
Board are made.  Lo and behold I get replacements
from Elecraft which have the same problem!  Then
Scott King at Elecraft tells me that this is "normal".
Sorry but I don't buy that...otherwise the mating
connecting points to the side panels should not need
masking at the 2-D fasteners.  Solution: a simple
spark plug wire brush (very stiff wire) to strip all
areas where connections are made via 2-D fasteners.
I found the SAME problem with the Heat Sink panel
including the RCV ANT inside,  The 160 kit instructions
(Page 7) say "The solder lug should be placed onto
the connector first so that it makes contact with the
inside rear panel of the Heat Sink."  It seems fairly
critical to me that this should be to bare metal on the
inside of the Heat Sink to ensure a good RF connection.
Scott may be right, but my better judgement tells me
to remove paint from all areas touching either 2-D
fasteners or RF connectors.

	Suggested Manual changes:

1.  Page 64, Box 1 says "adjust the slug in L34 until
it is near the top of the can.  Suggest adding "counter-
clockwise" after slug above.

2.  Page 65, first caution says "and 3.3 pF" should
say 2.7 pF.

3.  Page 70.  Box 3 says regarding Q7 "Do not solder
yet."  Unless I missed it, there are never any instructions
to solder Q7 and Q8 before Alignment and Test.  I soldered
mine from the top side of the board after securing them
on the bottom  of the heat sink.  Suggest adding soldering
instructions after Box 5 on page 73.

4.  Page 72, Box 7 says "You'll need to remove all of the
masking tape from this panel except that covering the
"RCV ANT" and "XVTR IN/OUT" holes."  Guess what?
The only masking tape on my heat sink panel was on
the Heat Sink area itself and two 2-D holes.  I used the
wire brush to remove paint from all 2-D holes and the inside
area of the RCV ANT hole.  Probably should have done
the XVTR holes but I don't ever plan to use that option
myself so I did not.  Masking the areas (as implied by
Elecraft's own instructions) is necessary for good RF
connections.  This seems like another defect in the
masking of the panels (like the side panels) but is easy
enough to correct with the spark plug brush.

5.  Page 72, Box 9 says "Remove the finishing nuts
and washers from the shafts of the antenna and key
jacks."  These were not installed in the parts I got so I
suggest removing this box entirely.

6.  K160RX, Page 7, Box 3 says "The solder lug should be
placed onto the connector first so that it makes contact
with the inside rear panel of the heat sink."  IF, the heat
sink were actually masked as implied by prior instructions,
you should remove the masking tape prior to this step.
Since mine wasn't masked, I used the wire brush as noted
above to expose bare metal.

7.  K160RX, general.  There were several places where
you needed to read between the lines if you had previously
prepared your K2 for the K160RX installation as described
on page 71 of the K2 manual.  Not a big deal and I didn't
even make any notes, but just use your head and don't
unnecessarily remove the Heat Sink, etc.

8.  KNB2.  No issues.

	Overall I was very impressed with how well the K2 was
documented, but everything can be improved...hence my series
of notes.  I do feel the issue about panels not being masked,
when the Manual implies they are, is a defect and should be
looked into.  The only other minor defect was one push button
switch which does not have a positive feel.  It functions OK but
not with the positive "snap" sound the others have.  I'll probably
ask Elecraft for a replacement and change it out when I have
time.

	I already made my first QSO with a PY8 on 10 meters and
was monitoring to 3B9C on 160 last night while building KNB2.
Now I need to read the Operation section of the Manual!  ;-))

				73,  Bill  W4ZV