[Elecraft] Need construction hints/advice

[Don Wilhelm]

Peter,

I prefer using a 63/37 solder over the 60/40 - it is eutectic (has no
plastic state) so you don't have to fear 'cold solder' joints and has a
slightly lower melting point than 60/40.
I use Kester 24-6337-9700 which is 0.02" dia.  Available from Mouser as PN
533-24-6337-9700. www.mouser.com and many other places too. Don't be overly
concerned about the joints not being 'shiny', some solders just don't do
that, but do be wary of those that look gray and crystalized - these are
'cold solder' joints which result from movement while the solder is cooling
(during the plastic phase).  Another reason for 'unshiny' solder is the need
for more flux.

I do recommend you obtain a soldering station.  I have been very pleased
with my Solomon SL-20 station.  It is not quite a pricy as the Weller and
performs just fine for my use.  It is available from Marlin P. Jones and
Associates for $54.95  www.mpja.com.  They have extra tips available too,
but I use the 1/32 chisel tip for most of my work - the flat edge gives a
bit more contact surface (and resultant faster heat transfer) than a conical
tip.

For snipping wires - I use the Xcelite flush cutters 170M.  Check your local
Home Depot for these, they often are packaged with a pair of Xcelite 387M
pliers (small long nose pliers that I find nice to handle) at a reasonable
price.  Should you not find them elsewhere, Mouser has the cutters - PN
578-170M for $4.43 (they call them 'shearcutter', but they are really flush
cutters).  If you use them ONLY for trimming leads, they will last a very
long time - use heavy duty cutters for the big stuff.

Elecraft and I do not recommend using anything to clean the flux from
circuit boards.  If you get a lot of flux buildup, I recommend you change
your solder to something less messy - Kester and Erskin are good solder
brands in my experience.  Using a flux cleaner on Elecraft circuit boards
may void your warranty!!!  In my experience over the last 47 years of
building stuff electronic, I have never felt the need to clean the flux from
any board - dust and dirt - yes, but flux - no, and I have looked at some
circuit boards I soldered more than 20 years ago and found no ill effects
from the solder flux - some of these circuit boards still work too. <G>.

For de-soldering, I can highly recommend the Hakko 808 which I have recently
purchased - it is a bit pricy, but does a great job fast and clean.  It also
makes the job of stripping and tinning toroid leads a snap.  Unless you are
doing a lot of desoldering you may (should - IMHO) not be able to justify
the price, and your suction de-soldering tool along with some braid used
with care will do the job for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message -----
> I note that my solder is 40% lead and 60% tin Rosin  core, Alpha Metals,
> Energized Plus.  It ususally produces a shiny seal on the PC board, but
> sometimes does not always end up shiny, even after re-heating.
>
> I've tried a Radio Shack 62/36/2 "Silver Bearing Solder", which I do not
> like as much, and which is harder to consistently get a shiny seal with.
>
> 1)  Is there  better solder out there that fellows are using for the K2
and
> K1, that never fails to produce that "shiny" seal?
>
> 2) Is the El Cheapo 25 watt Radio Shack soldering iron adequate, or do
> fellows recommend a more expensive Weller solder station?  If so, what is
a
> quality, yet reasonably priced, Weller solder Station model?
>
> 3) Pse recommend a good quality snipper, Brands and model numbers, and any
> other desirable/required soldering aides and tools.
>
> 4)  Are fellows cleaning their boards with Acetone to remove caked and
> perhaps slightly burnt rosin, or is there a better solvent? I've been
using
> acetone with a cotton swab, but I have to carefully examine the board with
> magnifiers and use a brush to remove the resultant cotton fibres.
>
> I do have an older suction type de-soldering orion, and braid, which seem
to
> work OK.
>