[Elecraft] Need construction hints/advice

[Don Brown]

Hi

I would strongly recommend a temperature controlled soldering station I =
use a Weller WES-50 But have also used the WTCP with a 700 degree tip. I =
set the WES-50 to 750 degrees. If you must use the 25 watt RS iron get a =
lamp dimmer and mount it in a box. Plug the iron into the dimmer and use =
it to control the iron. These cheap irons are almost always too hot. =
Xcelite and Hakko make flush cutters for about $5 the Xcelite number is =
170M. Get the matching needle nose pliers also, number 378M. The Hakko =
number is CHP-170. Hakko also makes a good soldering station and the =
best desoldering station although a bit pricey. Use only 63/37 Multicore =
or Kester solder with rosin core and there is no need to clean the =
boards.

Don Brown
KD5NDB

13 K2's
3 K1's
4 KPA100
4 KAT100
ALL modules
Elecraft field tester


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: phoon.usinet=20
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net=20
  Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 1:21 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Need construction hints/advice


  Slowly getting up the courage to order a K2.  Building an OHR QRP =
Wattmeter
  as a dress rehearsal, and to check on my building skills:

  I note that my solder is 40% lead and 60% tin Rosin  core, Alpha =
Metals,
  Energized Plus.  It ususally produces a shiny seal on the PC board, =
but
  sometimes does not always end up shiny, even after re-heating.

  I've tried a Radio Shack 62/36/2 "Silver Bearing Solder", which I do =
not
  like as much, and which is harder to consistently get a shiny seal =
with.

  1)  Is there  better solder out there that fellows are using for the =
K2 and
  K1, that never fails to produce that "shiny" seal?

  2) Is the El Cheapo 25 watt Radio Shack soldering iron adequate, or do
  fellows recommend a more expensive Weller solder station?  If so, what =
is a
  quality, yet reasonably priced, Weller solder Station model?

  3) Pse recommend a good quality snipper, Brands and model numbers, and =
any
  other desirable/required soldering aides and tools.

  4)  Are fellows cleaning their boards with Acetone to remove caked and
  perhaps slightly burnt rosin, or is there a better solvent? I've been =
using
  acetone with a cotton swab, but I have to carefully examine the board =
with
  magnifiers and use a brush to remove the resultant cotton fibres.

  I do have an older suction type de-soldering orion, and braid, which =
seem to
  work OK.


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