[Boatanchors] Loose Johnson Viking II meter glass

[Walt Cates]

Once you get everything clean you may want to try Eastman 910. It is the original cyanoacrylate adhesive. Eastman developed it specifically for lens manufacturing. It differs from super glue in clearness and quicker drying time. Practice with some scrap material first. We were using it in the early 60's in the manufacturing of cockpit instruments for ILS and VOR.


 Walt Cates, WD0GOF
https://wd0gof.com<https://wd0gof.wordpress.com>

Are you spending your life or are you investing it.
https://wd0gof.com/bible-study/commentaries/


________________________________
From: boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net <boatanchors-bounces at mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Phil <ko6bb1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 29, 2020 11:00 PM
To: boatanchors <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Loose Johnson Viking II meter glass

Here's something I haven't tried, but might work very well (but will
require great care).

1. Use a piece of very sticky tape, fold in the middle with the ends
bent out (like _!_) and attache to the middle of the glass. This forms a
handle to gently pull on the glass.

2.  With the glass vertical (normal viewing position) put very fine bead
of super glue (or other runny glue) along the BOTTOM edge of the glass
where it meets the bezel. and let it run down . CAREFUL to not use too
much to where it runs inside the meter or down the bezel.  A wetted
toothpick or similar might help.

3.  After the glue sets thoroughly, turn the rig upside down and repeat
on the top edge.  You could also do the same thing with the rig set on
it's sides.  The idea is to not let the glue run inside the movement and
mess it up.

73 From "The Beaconeer's Lair"
Specializing in DXing NDBs (Longwave Beacons)
Phil, KO6BB,  http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/
KO6BB/B beacon, ~20W on 28.290 MHz, Ringo Vertical

HF/LF RADIOS:
YAESU:      FTDX-3000 (bought 2019).
Icom:       IC-7200 Xceiver, DSP IF & filters (~2015).
Kenwood:    TS-450SAT Xceiver, cascaded 250/125Hz Inrad filters.
10M Beacon: 2 x Realistic HTX-100's on 28.290MHz
HOMEBREW:   7 Tube+Rect 1v3 Regen RX for LF (built 2015)
SDRS:       Softrock Ensemble II LF (built from a kit 2017).
             Softrock Ensemble II HF Receiver (2019)
ACC:   MFJ-993B Auto Antenna Matcher.
        HOMEBREW  LF-MF Pre-Amp, 8Hz Audio Filter.
        HOMEBREW  4 Port Antenna Multicoupler, Feeds 4 RX's.
        ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole, 35 feet AGL for MW/SW.
           Active Mini-Whip, 36 Feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
           37 foot "Low Noise Vertical", 11 feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
           Cushcraft AR-10 Ringo Vertical, 14 feet AGL for 10M beacon.
Merced, Central California, 37, 18, 37N   120, 30, 6W CM97rh

On 3/1/2020 4:22 AM, hwhall at compuserve.com wrote:
> Having tried recementing meter glasses before, I can say it's often not a pretty sight.
> If the glass is completely free & flopping around, care needs to be taken to minimize hitting the movement parts. Trying to cement around the edges without opening the meter... (1) it's tricky to get the cement in the right place without getting it also in the wrong place.(2) You need some gimmick to pull the glass back up snug against the casing while the cement sets.
> Some meters weren't cemented in the first place, they had metal retaining rings inside the case. In any case (pun intended) opening the case is the right way to do it but also the hardest.... as usual.
>
> WayneWB4OGM
>
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