[Boatanchors] Loose Johnson Viking II meter glass

[Phil]

Here's something I haven't tried, but might work very well (but will 
require great care).

1. Use a piece of very sticky tape, fold in the middle with the ends 
bent out (like _!_) and attache to the middle of the glass. This forms a 
handle to gently pull on the glass.

2.  With the glass vertical (normal viewing position) put very fine bead 
of super glue (or other runny glue) along the BOTTOM edge of the glass 
where it meets the bezel. and let it run down . CAREFUL to not use too 
much to where it runs inside the meter or down the bezel.  A wetted 
toothpick or similar might help.

3.  After the glue sets thoroughly, turn the rig upside down and repeat 
on the top edge.  You could also do the same thing with the rig set on 
it's sides.  The idea is to not let the glue run inside the movement and 
mess it up.

73 From "The Beaconeer's Lair"
Specializing in DXing NDBs (Longwave Beacons)
Phil, KO6BB,  http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/
KO6BB/B beacon, ~20W on 28.290 MHz, Ringo Vertical

HF/LF RADIOS:
YAESU:      FTDX-3000 (bought 2019).
Icom:       IC-7200 Xceiver, DSP IF & filters (~2015).
Kenwood:    TS-450SAT Xceiver, cascaded 250/125Hz Inrad filters.
10M Beacon: 2 x Realistic HTX-100's on 28.290MHz
HOMEBREW:   7 Tube+Rect 1v3 Regen RX for LF (built 2015)
SDRS:       Softrock Ensemble II LF (built from a kit 2017).
             Softrock Ensemble II HF Receiver (2019)
ACC:   MFJ-993B Auto Antenna Matcher.
        HOMEBREW  LF-MF Pre-Amp, 8Hz Audio Filter.
        HOMEBREW  4 Port Antenna Multicoupler, Feeds 4 RX's.
        ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole, 35 feet AGL for MW/SW.
           Active Mini-Whip, 36 Feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
           37 foot "Low Noise Vertical", 11 feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
           Cushcraft AR-10 Ringo Vertical, 14 feet AGL for 10M beacon.
Merced, Central California, 37, 18, 37N   120, 30, 6W CM97rh

On 3/1/2020 4:22 AM, hwhall at compuserve.com wrote:
> Having tried recementing meter glasses before, I can say it's often not a pretty sight.
> If the glass is completely free & flopping around, care needs to be taken to minimize hitting the movement parts. Trying to cement around the edges without opening the meter... (1) it's tricky to get the cement in the right place without getting it also in the wrong place.(2) You need some gimmick to pull the glass back up snug against the casing while the cement sets.
> Some meters weren't cemented in the first place, they had metal retaining rings inside the case. In any case (pun intended) opening the case is the right way to do it but also the hardest.... as usual.
>
> WayneWB4OGM
>