[Boatanchors] Dial Re-Stringing Madness!

jeremy-ca km1h at jeremy.mv.com
Mon May 12 16:49:30 EDT 2008


A couple of things come to mind as taught to me by the OT's at National 45 
years ago.

Always use real dial string of the proper diameter. I have used 30# test 
cotton fishing line on "easy" jobs with no problem. I dont know what the 
reproduction string is made from but Id suspect it is imported and not of 
the same material or quality as the original.

Run the new cord thru melted beeswax before stringing.

Clean the shaft with a solvent. I use lacquer thinner if no plastic is 
involved.

Remove the shine on the shaft with 400 grit paper, dont try roughing it up, 
just remove the shine.

Wrap an extra turn or two on the shaft to compensate for drag in the 
capacitor.

Tension the spring on the drum properly. This will require going back and 
forth a few times until all string slop is removed.

Carl
KM1H



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Mijal" <bluebirdtele at embarqmail.com>
To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Cc: <glowbugs at piobaire.mines.uidaho.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:24 PM
Subject: [Boatanchors] Dial Re-Stringing Madness!


Hi:

I work on old ham gear all the time and am trying to increase my skill level 
with the dreaded task of dial re-stringing.  There is one kind of dial 
stringing scheme that seems to give me lots of problems and my batting 
average with this one is not good.  I'll describe it for you and if you have 
any knowledge to share I sure would appreciate it.

It's the main tuning capacitor with the big tin wheel attached to the tuning 
shaft and driven by a couple of turns wound around a brass shaft attached to 
the main tuning dial which is off set from the tuning capacitor.  This 
scheme is in the Drake 2A 2B RX,  the Hammarlund HX 50 transmitter and lots 
of other stuff.
No problems following the manuals to set up the stringing and I have 
specialized tools to get right thru it. I use good quality string designed 
for radio work.  The problem is I frequently end up with a dial that stops 
moving at some point in it's travel range. There is good tension overall and 
the string is not binding as it travels.  The damn thing just stops turning 
the cap and slips on the tuning dial shaft.
Any ideas guys?
Thanks
Greg
WA7LYO
Kinston NC
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