[Boatanchors] Dial Re-Stringing Madness!

[Harold Smith]

I have found that a few drops of Worcestershire  Sauce on the dial cord, 
usually
does the job. No Kidding!

Price W0RI


>A couple of things come to mind as taught to me by the OT's at National 45 
>years ago.
>
> Always use real dial string of the proper diameter. I have used 30# test 
> cotton fishing line on "easy" jobs with no problem. I dont know what the 
> reproduction string is made from but Id suspect it is imported and not of 
> the same material or quality as the original.
>
> Run the new cord thru melted beeswax before stringing.
>
> Clean the shaft with a solvent. I use lacquer thinner if no plastic is 
> involved.
>
> Remove the shine on the shaft with 400 grit paper, dont try roughing it 
> up, just remove the shine.
>
> Wrap an extra turn or two on the shaft to compensate for drag in the 
> capacitor.
>
> Tension the spring on the drum properly. This will require going back and 
> forth a few times until all string slop is removed.
>
> Carl
> KM1H
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Greg Mijal" <bluebirdtele at embarqmail.com>
> To: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
> Cc: <glowbugs at piobaire.mines.uidaho.edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:24 PM
> Subject: [Boatanchors] Dial Re-Stringing Madness!
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I work on old ham gear all the time and am trying to increase my skill 
> level with the dreaded task of dial re-stringing.  There is one kind of 
> dial stringing scheme that seems to give me lots of problems and my 
> batting average with this one is not good.  I'll describe it for you and 
> if you have any knowledge to share I sure would appreciate it.
>
> It's the main tuning capacitor with the big tin wheel attached to the 
> tuning shaft and driven by a couple of turns wound around a brass shaft 
> attached to the main tuning dial which is off set from the tuning 
> capacitor.  This scheme is in the Drake 2A 2B RX,  the Hammarlund HX 50 
> transmitter and lots of other stuff.
> No problems following the manuals to set up the stringing and I have 
> specialized tools to get right thru it. I use good quality string designed 
> for radio work.  The problem is I frequently end up with a dial that stops 
> moving at some point in it's travel range. There is good tension overall 
> and the string is not binding as it travels.  The damn thing just stops 
> turning the cap and slips on the tuning dial shaft.
> Any ideas guys?
> Thanks
> Greg
> WA7LYO
> Kinston NC
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