[Boatanchors] Cleaning without dis-assembly

[Bob Macklin]

I tried cleaning a VERY DIRTY Heath HR-10 chassis with 409. All the
lettering came off. And I don't know why some (a lot) of the cad plating
came off.

I have found some of the ORANGE cleaners will also remove lettering and
sometimes paint.

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa,
"Real Radios Glow in the Dark"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Nickels" <w9ran at oneradio.net>
To: "JT Croteau" <jt.n1ese at gmail.com>
Cc: <boatanchors at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Boatanchors] Cleaning without dis-assembly


> JT Croteau wrote:
> > What's the best way to go about getting most of it clean without
> > removing a lot, if any, of the parts?
> JT, you'll get a lot of personal opinions and preferences, but I'd just
> emphasize what a chemical engineer who used to frequent lists like this
> (Dr. Barry Ornitz, if you'd like to google him up) often said:  "there
> is no substitute for patience and elbow grease".   In other words, don't
> expect to find some magic chemical you can spray on and have it make the
> chassis look like new again (but if it exists, I'll be the first
> customer!).    Be aware that some of the stuff we use may leave a
> residue that can, over time, do more harm than good.   Given this fact,
> most of us like to take the "least invasive" approach to begin with,
> such as warm water with a mild dish detergent, rather than harsher
> chemicals.   (Yes I know, everyone loves 409, Simple Green, or my
> personal fav "Scrubbing Bubbles" - but if you start mild you can always
> work "up" when and where needed.   Many of us have ruined at least one
> dial glass by using even plain water, and thus learned this lesson the
> hard way. Be cautious with water near transformers, IF cans, etc  that
> contain paper, and remember that  insulators, tube sockets, etc in high
> voltage areas need to be scrupulously clean to avoid potential arcs or
> carbon path formation.
>
> Tools of the trade include:  lots of Q-Tips, paper towels, and cheap
> paintbrushes in various widths.  I'll often clamp a wad of paper towel
> or cotton ball in forceps to scrub larger areas, and if you feel the
> need for a real abrasive, the Scotch-brite pads are much better than
> steel wool - the last thing you need is tiny bits of steel wool
> deposited inside your radio!   The cotton wadding called "Nev-R-Dull"
> and mild abrasive polishing compounds like Brasso,  Orange "Gunk", or
> the kind of car wax with an abrasive stripper can be used on plated
> metal surfaces but they will dull or remove paint if you get carried
> away.   Be especially careful using chlorinated solvents, acetone,
> ammonia, and similar chemicals that will attack some painted surfaces
> before you even realize it.  Of course you want to be really cautious
> with chemicals on any plastics.  For dials that have yellowed, the Novus
> polishes are the only way to go - again, lots of elbow grease!  De-Oxit
> is a must - get both the spray can for squirting into pots and the
> direct applicator for rotary switches, connectors, and sockets.   99%
> isopropyl alcohol, 3 in 1 oil and the "Goof Off" type solvent for
> removing stickers, tape, ink, etc. also come in handy but should be used
> with discretion.
>
> A shop vac and air compressor are helpful to get dust out of variable
> caps and hard-to-reach places but generally speaking, the best cosmetic
> restoration is done with some simple tools and materials, good lighting,
> and a light touch!
>
> 73, Bob W9RAN
> _______________________________________________
>