[Boatanchors] Cleaning without dis-assembly

[Robert Nickels]

JT Croteau wrote:
> What's the best way to go about getting most of it clean without
> removing a lot, if any, of the parts?  
JT, you'll get a lot of personal opinions and preferences, but I'd just 
emphasize what a chemical engineer who used to frequent lists like this 
(Dr. Barry Ornitz, if you'd like to google him up) often said:  "there 
is no substitute for patience and elbow grease".   In other words, don't 
expect to find some magic chemical you can spray on and have it make the 
chassis look like new again (but if it exists, I'll be the first 
customer!).    Be aware that some of the stuff we use may leave a 
residue that can, over time, do more harm than good.   Given this fact, 
most of us like to take the "least invasive" approach to begin with, 
such as warm water with a mild dish detergent, rather than harsher 
chemicals.   (Yes I know, everyone loves 409, Simple Green, or my 
personal fav "Scrubbing Bubbles" - but if you start mild you can always 
work "up" when and where needed.   Many of us have ruined at least one 
dial glass by using even plain water, and thus learned this lesson the 
hard way. Be cautious with water near transformers, IF cans, etc  that 
contain paper, and remember that  insulators, tube sockets, etc in high 
voltage areas need to be scrupulously clean to avoid potential arcs or 
carbon path formation.

Tools of the trade include:  lots of Q-Tips, paper towels, and cheap 
paintbrushes in various widths.  I'll often clamp a wad of paper towel 
or cotton ball in forceps to scrub larger areas, and if you feel the 
need for a real abrasive, the Scotch-brite pads are much better than 
steel wool - the last thing you need is tiny bits of steel wool 
deposited inside your radio!   The cotton wadding called "Nev-R-Dull" 
and mild abrasive polishing compounds like Brasso,  Orange "Gunk", or 
the kind of car wax with an abrasive stripper can be used on plated 
metal surfaces but they will dull or remove paint if you get carried 
away.   Be especially careful using chlorinated solvents, acetone, 
ammonia, and similar chemicals that will attack some painted surfaces 
before you even realize it.  Of course you want to be really cautious 
with chemicals on any plastics.  For dials that have yellowed, the Novus 
polishes are the only way to go - again, lots of elbow grease!  De-Oxit 
is a must - get both the spray can for squirting into pots and the 
direct applicator for rotary switches, connectors, and sockets.   99% 
isopropyl alcohol, 3 in 1 oil and the "Goof Off" type solvent for 
removing stickers, tape, ink, etc. also come in handy but should be used 
with discretion.

A shop vac and air compressor are helpful to get dust out of variable 
caps and hard-to-reach places but generally speaking, the best cosmetic 
restoration is done with some simple tools and materials, good lighting, 
and a light touch!

73, Bob W9RAN