[ARC5] R23 repair, dynamotor mounts, questions...

[Kenneth G. Gordon]

On 23 Dec 2015 at 3:45, aa9il at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hello
> Im working on an R23 receiver that was modified but never finished.  "Someone"
> removed the dynamotor mounts

HOW were they removed? They simply un-screw, but many hams in past 
"ages" didn't know that, and often destroyed the threaded places in the 
chassis when they removed them.

> and the small metal stud that is near the 3 pin
> plug - the plug is still there.

As I remember it, there should be THREE studs near the plug.

> does anyone have 4 of the dynamotor mounts?

Hmmm....I MAY have, but will have to search my pile, and I can't do that until 
spring at this point.
 
> Once I clean the tube, coil pins, sockets, tweak the trimmers, deoxit, etc, I
> will go over the wiring mods - it looks like this was a 12v change so I will
> check the wiring adds.

If the filament wriing mods were done correctly, you may elect to leave them 
alone.

> There were two bathtub caps removed I'll put in new mylar caps.
> 
> One thing I saw was the 15uF capacitor is mounted on a small insulation mount -
> so its not bolted to the chassis.

Yes. That was a feature in some of the early models which (as I remember it) 
fed an ILS system. You can safely remove that insulator and the ground wire 
and bolt the cap directly to the chassis

> There is a ground wire soldered to the flower pot with a solder type lug.  Also
> interesting is that the 15uF cap is rated at 35v

Correct. All of those AF (12A6) cathode-bypass caps were 35 volt

> So, a work in progress - has anyone else encountered the 'isolated' 15uF cap?

Yes. Often. See above. That is a "factory" feature. As I said, just remove 
both the ground wire and the insulator and bolt the cap directly to the 
chassis....if it is still good.

Ken W7EKB