[Yaesu] FL-2100B, Help Troubleshoot...

[Martin Sole]

So, pretty much as suspected.

Now you have it working again I might recommend a look at PA0FRI's website http://www.pa0fri.com/ . He has some useful preventative measures aimed at safeguarding the somewhat squirrelly FL2100 amps. Note in particular the rerouted ground from VC1.

Cheers
Martin, HS0ZED


-----Original Message-----
From: yaesu-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:yaesu-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KBØNLY
Sent: 19 May 2012 10:14
To: geraldj at weather.net; yaesu at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Yaesu] FL-2100B, Help Troubleshoot...

Hmm, never thought of that, I just tore into it when I got it but now that I look back at the old switch it was the 10m contact that was damaged the worst!  It was blown up when I got it, which is why I was able to get it so cheap, but now that I think about it I bet that is why.  It melted the common contact off the old switch and burned a hole in the rotor.

73,

Scott KBØNLY


-----Original Message----- 
From: Dr. Gerald N. Johnson
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 9:20 PM
To: yaesu at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Yaesu] FL-2100B, Help Troubleshoot...

That may have been a major contributor to the demise of the bandswitch.

73, Jerry, K0CQ

On 5/18/2012 8:31 PM, KBØNLY wrote:
> Roger there is... Didn't think I would need to mention it since I 
> mentioned
> the SWR.  Dug out my old Heathkit HM102 and put it inline, SWR is about
> 1.5:1 on 10m, a slight tweak of the coil and its flat now.
>
> The problem was a bad solder joint on the tap at the tank coil, turns out
> when the amp was warmed up it got intermittent and it was driving me buggy
> finding it.  As you could imagine, I would test it, nothing, let the amp
> cool and rest and walk away for a while and come back and start going
> through everything and it all looked good continuity wise through the 
> input
> and bandswitches, etc.  But warm it up and I would get a blip or two of
> output and then nothing again!  Talk about a hair puller.  Then I decided 
> to
> get the chicken stick out, pull the plug and bleed everything off and 
> check
> continuity quick while it was still warmed up after being on the net and 
> low
> and behold its an open circuit on the output side!  A little heat, solder,
> and its all better now.
>
>
> 73,
>
> Scott KBØNLY
>
>
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