[Yaesu] FL-2100B, Help Troubleshoot...
KBØNLY
kb0nly at mchsi.com
Fri May 18 23:13:47 EDT 2012
Hmm, never thought of that, I just tore into it when I got it but now that I
look back at the old switch it was the 10m contact that was damaged the
worst! It was blown up when I got it, which is why I was able to get it so
cheap, but now that I think about it I bet that is why. It melted the
common contact off the old switch and burned a hole in the rotor.
73,
Scott KBØNLY
-----Original Message-----
From: Dr. Gerald N. Johnson
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 9:20 PM
To: yaesu at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Yaesu] FL-2100B, Help Troubleshoot...
That may have been a major contributor to the demise of the bandswitch.
73, Jerry, K0CQ
On 5/18/2012 8:31 PM, KBØNLY wrote:
> Roger there is... Didn't think I would need to mention it since I
> mentioned
> the SWR. Dug out my old Heathkit HM102 and put it inline, SWR is about
> 1.5:1 on 10m, a slight tweak of the coil and its flat now.
>
> The problem was a bad solder joint on the tap at the tank coil, turns out
> when the amp was warmed up it got intermittent and it was driving me buggy
> finding it. As you could imagine, I would test it, nothing, let the amp
> cool and rest and walk away for a while and come back and start going
> through everything and it all looked good continuity wise through the
> input
> and bandswitches, etc. But warm it up and I would get a blip or two of
> output and then nothing again! Talk about a hair puller. Then I decided
> to
> get the chicken stick out, pull the plug and bleed everything off and
> check
> continuity quick while it was still warmed up after being on the net and
> low
> and behold its an open circuit on the output side! A little heat, solder,
> and its all better now.
>
>
> 73,
>
> Scott KBØNLY
>
>
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