[TMC] PMO-2
G.Lofstead
jerrylofstead at bellsouth.net
Mon Jun 12 15:00:54 EDT 2006
HI Guys,
I have a complete DDR-2 dual diversity receiver. The thermostat went out on mine in 1966. Temprature was controlled by a mercury thermometer with two points brought out. It maintains the PTO within 0.5 degrees Celcius. The replacenent was no longer a mercury one but a whole assembly ( COSTLY!!) that replaced the original with control circuits was supplied to replace it.. It was a solid state replacement. The potential of the heater elements going bad is remote to less... They are beefy..
Good luck in your repair endeavor. I would look for a replacement thermostat that can controll 110 VAC and use it ,if it has reasonable temprature accuracy range.
Jerry
W3CDE
Atlanta, GA
>
> From: Roy Morgan <roy.morgan at nist.gov>
> Date: 2006/06/12 Mon AM 11:19:35 EDT
> To: "Ira Curtis" <kch at tie.cl>, <telegrapher at att.net>
> CC: tmc at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [TMC] PMO-2
>
> At 11:50 AM 6/11/2006, Ira Curtis wrote:
> >Hi Larry,
> >Yes I do have the original manual, however, it doesn't say any thing about
> >tracking. It, to my understanding, deals only with small frequency
> >corrections.
>
> Ira,
>
> Here's the advice I got from a former TMC employee: "DO NOT open up the
> master oscillator."
>
> Now, that's all very fine, except when the thing does not work right. I
> have a couple TMC master oscillators here (in a transmitter and in a VOX-5)
> and I think that neither of them tracks right. Sooo.. here are my thoughts
> on the matter:
>
> 0) From what you have posted, you do not have a tracking problem, you have
> a component failure problem that must be solved first before you can get
> the tracking to work right.
>
> 1) Go ahead and open it up. You'll have a chance of making it run right if
> you do. If you just leave it alone, it will never work right.
>
> 2) It sounds to me like one or more capacitors in the frequency determining
> network are open, leaky, or changed in value. (An inductor malfunction is
> less likely but possible.) The caps used are a collection of high stability
> fixed caps, temperature compensated units likely selected during
> manufacture to make the oscillator track correctly both mechanically and
> over temperature changes, and the variable caps used for main tuning and
> frequency correction adjustment. If one or more of those is now
> kaput, you will have a very challenging time getting it all right. You may
> well be able to get it right enough for you with only a modest effort,
> however. Note, we are not making broadcasts of classified traffic to the
> US Naval Fleet from headquarters and having to depend on frequency
> stability to support multi-channel MUX RTTY over HF links across the globe.
>
> 3) Very likely, there is no alignment/overhaul/re-calibration procedure
> available. You have to figure out the tracking adjustments all out again,
> after you get it running approximately right. There has been published
> more than one article in the ham literature on temperature compensating VFO
> circuits. These articles would be a good place to start.
>
> 4) Some important aspects of compensated, high-stability VFO are:
> - tracking error or linearity
> - short term stability (over minutes or parts of a day)
> - long term stability (over weeks or years)
> - backlash in gearing and other mechanical parts
> - oven temperature control
> - design elements included to allow for manufacturing alignment, aging,
> and testing
>
> Only some of these aspects would be most important to us now.
>
> 5) If you are tempted to mess with the split end plates on the capacitor
> rotor(s), don't do it until the thing is working nearly right across the
> whole band. The bending/twisting of segmented variable capacitor plates,
> called "knifing", is a last stage refinement to improve linearity and
> reduce the need for "corrector adjustment" at various points across the range.
>
> 6) When I get to working on my TMC oscillators, here are at lest some of
> the things I'll do:
>
> - Check power supply B+ for stability, replace regulator tubes as needed
> - Check/ replace oscillator tube (it's a 6AB4, isn't it?)
> - Ensure all moving contacts are restored - variable capacitors,
> including grounding wipers, any switches. Caig De-Oxit and Pro-Gold are the
> preferred treatments. See www.caig.com Do not even think of using
> alternative products you might have gotten at Rat Shack.
> - Lubricate very carefully all mechanical parts.
> - Check that anti-backlash gearing is working right. (This may require
> complete dis-assembly of the mechanism for thorough cleaning.)
> - Figure out what the thing is actually doing: Is it more or less linear
> but the end to end frequency span is off? Is the Corrector system working,
> or working but not right? Is it ok on some frequencies but non-linear? If
> the thing is running high in frequency, I'd suspect open capacitors (or
> possibly a shorted coil).
> - Are the ovens working right? (you can't expect it to run right if the
> ovens aren't heating, or are overheating.)
> - Decide if possible what parts might have failed. I might remove caps
> from the circuit for testing if needed. (I am able to measure capacitors
> very accurately here, including loss factors.) Heating/cooling cycles may
> be needed to find an intermittent cap.
> - Set it right by cap or inductor replacements as needed
> - Then figure out how to align it for dial accuracy and proper frequency
> readout at temperature.
>
> >I believe the problem lies within the correcting capacitor, that doesn't
> >track or isn't synchronized with the main tuning cap.
>
> Do I remember correctly that there is a variable capacitor adjustable from
> the front panel that allows for periodic correction at a 100 kc (or is it
> every 50 kc?) point near the "frequency of interest"? If that thing has
> gotten a bad rotor to frame wiper or the like, it may be intermittently out
> of the circuit, or only partially making contact. If so, tiny drop of Caig
> De-Oxit, followed by some Pro-Gold will solve that problem most likely.
>
> It is unlikely that a variable capacitor in there has changed value, unless
> physical damage has occurred due to trauma. (I have a frequency meter
> which is the successor to the BC-221 series whose main tuning cap has a
> stator mounted with little glass spheres. A good whack dislodges the
> stator and it's all out of calibration if it works at all. And this is a
> piece of military equipment! bad design.)
>
> I may be remembering the thing incorrectly, and the "corrector" system
> might be a mechanical adjustment to the main tuning cap, a
> non-changing-until-corrected displacement of the main tuning cap from it's
> nominal position. On the other hand, it might be a separate capacitor in
> parallel with the main tuning cap. If I remember correctly the TMC master
> oscillators do not use a corrector mechanism that can be set at many points
> throughout the range as the Collins PTO's do.
>
> >And if this is it, although I will finally find how to do it, but would
> >rather shorten the procedure.
>
> If the dial is 140 kc off in places, there is definitely something amiss in
> the frequency determining circuits. Just "tracking" is not gong to solve
> the problem
>
> > Does anybody knows of a source to get the heating elements and both the
> > mercury and the thermo couple thermostats for the PMO's?
>
> No, sorry. Other than another PMO. Searching the industrial and electronic
> sources may surface a suitable substitute for the heater elements. The
> scientific laboratory supply industry may have similar or even the same
> heaters available. As to thermostats, thermal switches are available, at
> least in crude form, now. I think "Clixon" or some such is one well known
> brand name. They no doubt will be different physically than the original,
> but might work just fine.
>
> A moderate amount of design and new parts would get you a proportional,
> thermistor controlled heater controller that might even outperform the
> original as to stability and accuracy. This might be just the thing for at
> least the inner oven. The Yellow Springs Instrument company "YSI" has
> for a long time made thermistors and controllers of astounding performance
> for all sorts of applications, but stand by for a shock when you find out
> prices.
> (http://www.ysitemperature.com/ Note:
> " In April 2006, YSI Temperature was sold to Measurement Specialties, Inc.
> Please visit ysitemperature.com for information on ordering precision
> temperature components. "
>
> <http://www.ysitemperature.com/about-news-msi.html>YSI Temperature is now
> part of Measurement Specialties.
>
> <http://www.betatherm.com>Betatherm is also now part of Measurement
> Specialties
>
>
>
> I don't think the TMC thermostats are thermocouple type, are they? I think
> they are temperature sensitive, bimetallic contact
> open-upon-temperature-rise devices.
>
> >Same goes for the clear pilot lamps lens?
>
> Scrounge at hamfests. All my stuff is now in storage, so I can't even look
> to see if I have one that's just right. Also, contact Play Things of the
> Past at:
> http://www.oldradioparts.com/
> A quick tour of his categories did not find the part you need, so an email
> to him may be in order.
>
> Check the AES part number PL-122
> "INDICATOR LAMP, JEWEL, CLEAR, REPLACEMENT FOR FENDER
> Replacement jewel for Fender amps. Clear. " $2.25
> http://www.tubesandmore.com/
>
> (The thread on the metal cased "jewels" is likely not the same as on the
> plastic-only ones, so know which you have before ordering. Of course AES
> will sell you the whole pilot lamp holder.)
>
>
> I encourage you to persevere with the TMC oscillator, and to report your
> success. I'll be digging into mine late this year after I move and get my
> shop re-established.
>
> Roy
> Who would like to find any TMC RTTY terminal unit.
>
>
> - Roy Morgan, K1LKY since 1959 - Keep 'em Glowing!
> 7130 Panorama Drive, Derwood MD 20855
> Home: 301-330-8828 Cell 301-928-7794
> Work: Voice: 301-975-3254, Fax: 301-948-6213
> roy.morgan at nist.gov --
>
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