[TheForge] NON blacksmithing question.

[Bruce]

As others have said, the foot valve, probably in the well, is one likely
source of this problem.

Another might be the surge tank -- if any.  These tanks not only even out
the pulses from the pump (much like a capacitor evens out the AC-component
of rectified DC in a  computer power supply) but they also maintain the
pressure within the selected cut-off range of the pump controller.

If this pump system is equipped with a back-pressure regulator like a
hot-water heating system is, then that regulator will be spitting water as
the pump cycles -- because its "safety" pressure is exceeded every cycle,
which is what the surge tank is supposed to correct for.  However, I expect
it's unlikely that there's such a component in a water system.

Many of these surge tanks are bladder-type tanks, wherein a failure means
most likely the bladder failed and the tank needs to be replaced.  However,
it is conceivable that the bladder merely needs to be re-inflated (with an
air pump -- there's a port much like on a car rim to accept a standard air
pump).

My boiler-based home heating system employs a bladderless "overhead" (of
the pump) tank.  There's nothing to fail in it but valves, but it needs to
be drained once a year since it relies on being a headspace of air -- and
air eventually dissolves into the water in the tank (which effect is
precluded in a bladder tank by the rubber bladder).  It has a drain valve
with an air bleed fitting on the bottom for this purpose.

If the system has a bladder tank*, *it might be possible to treat that as
an overhead tank simply by periodically repressurizing it with air.  I
don't know how long such a recharge would last, but it might prove suitable
as an interim fix.

Bruce
NJ


On Sat, Jan 9, 2021 at 5:51 PM jerry Frost <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:

> Yeah, there is a foot valve in the pump that closes so to keep the water
> line full. If it's jammed open the vacuum created by the weight of water
> will suck your well tank down. We had the same problem a few years ago, an
> earthquake shook the permeable soils in the aquifer loose and the well pump
> sucked sand for days. We had to clear the well again but a pebble got stuck
> in the foot valve and we ended up having to have a well service pull and
> replace the pump.
>
> The foot valve costs more to try to fix than just replace. They're
> typically rated as a 50 year appliance but stuff happens. They were in and
> out in about an hour but I made sure our well casing is easily accessible.
>
> Frosty
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:
> theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of CGRAF
> Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2021 10:12 AM
> To: TheForge at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] NON blacksmithing question.
>
> The back flow valve is not in evidence so if that is the problem it is
> likely in the well. Could he place one in his building on the incoming line
> and not need to pull the pump. That would be a huge strain on his budget
> right at the moment.
>
> On 1/9/2021 1:03 PM, CGRAF wrote:
> >
> > I have a City Boy question that was posted to me by another city boy
> > who recently moved to rural Kentucky from Milwaukee.
> >
> > His problem is this:
> >
> > His well pump brings his tank up to pressure in about 5 minutes
> > starting a 0 psi.
> >
> > Pump shuts off as it should at 58 psi.
> >
> > Two minutes later pressure has dropped to 30 pis and pump comes back on.
> >
> > Two minutes later it is back to pressure.
> >
> > IF he turns off power to the pump pressure falls to 0 psi  within 5
> > minutes.
> >
> > When the water line going to the pump is turned off pressure remains up.
> >
> > This is entirely outside my and his realm of experience. It is too far
> > for me to lay hands on it from Milwaukee.
> >
> > From piping layouts that I have come up with on line I am thinking
> > perhaps a back flow valve is not working??
> >
> >
> > Mike Graf
> >
> >
>
> --
>
>
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