[TheForge] Rivet question

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

Clearly the right advice Roger.
And i did that, just one swat too many with the larger hammer. Used a little 4 oz hammer to peen the edges down and texture the commercial rivet head.
I confess this was a bit of a rhetorical question to begin with,
but i did make the mistake ( not the first time), TheForge was kinda dead,
and i’d hoped someone had an after the fact solution.
This afternoon i’m off in my old rustbucket flatbed to deliver my wife’s Chinese dragon commission.
I think i’m going to be a bit overweight, but that’s what trucks are for…truck willing.
It’s got a 2 piece ferrocement body, covered by almost 8000 shaped and glazed pieces of ceramic ( scales, teeth, eyeballs, etc.). She has almost 4 years in it. I’m very pleased that they have the responsibility
of installing it ( crane and all).

On Mar 2, 2015, at 6:19 AM, roger degner <781 at means.net> wrote:

I was always told riveting use light hammer fast to upset edge of material.
Use slower heavy hammer to forge or move the center of the material.
On Mar 1, 2015 11:47 PM, "jerry Frost" <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:

> I use a 16oz ball pein on large, over 5/16" iron rivets. Does a treadle
> hammer rivet set save a lot of time?
> 
> Sorry Pete I couldn't help it. <snicker>
> 
> Jer
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Peter
> Fels & Phoebe Palmer
> Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 8:20 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Rivet question
> 
> Thanks Jerry and Bob.
> Yeah, got impatient and used the treadle hammer to rough set it in.
> 
> On Mar 1, 2015, at 8:20 PM, Bob Ehrenberger <eforge at centurytel.net> wrote:
> 
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Peter
> Fels & Phoebe Palmer
> Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 2:20 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Test
> 
> OK.BS question:
> I was assembling one of my  jointed bottle openers ( one that i had to take
> back apart and forge on some more to get the parts to work right), and
> after
> i'd set down and headed the 1/4" brass rivet, i had to spend 15 minutes
> wiggling it back and forth to free it up.
> Both holes were hot punched and the mating surfaces were hand forged so
> nothing was accurately aligned.
> What's the best, quickest way to keep the parts moving freely after the
> rivet is set down?
> 
> -- Reply---
> The best thing is to prevent the rivet from getting too tight in the first
> place.
> If you put a piece of card stock between the parts before riveting you can
> remove it after riveting and there should be some clearance.  Also when
> setting the rivet the lighter the hammer you use the easier it is to keep
> the upset at the very end.
> 
> Bob Ehrenberger
> Shelbyville, MO
> 
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