[TheForge] Test

[jerry Frost]

I don't much like the valve grinding compound myself, it'd be a real bear
getting cleaned out even if you take it apart. Heck if you take it apart
just sand the pin reassemble and pein it.

No, not hot enough to cause scale, not close. I'm thinking of an electric
soldering iron or maybe gun and perhaps a cold pack on the rest to keep the
differential as high as reasonable. 

You paper wrap the pin before turning the outside of the hinge. Might work
if you can do it cold but. . .  hmmmmmm. Thicker or harder paper, say a
matchbook with slick side in?

Jer

-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Fels & Phoebe Palmer
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 4:21 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Test


On Mar 1, 2015, at 5:08 PM, jerry Frost <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:

Valve grinding compound to dap the surfaces? 

Thought of that but declined because of finishing complications. I usually
include a layer of paper in the rivet sandwich  but it does not entirely
solve it.

Perhaps touching the pin with a soldering iron then moving it would
accelerate wearing in. The pin being warmer would be larger so friction
would be increased?

Perhaps it's the work that needs to be heated and expanded to bring more
pressure to bear on the wiggled surfaces.
Somewhere i read about heating the rivet and working it as it cooled for
tongs rivets.
It's just that trying to wire brush that fire-scaled joint clean is spooky.

Jer