[TheForge] Desperation forces stoopid question time...

[G. Watts]

Andy,
Couple of things:
The standard structural channel you're looking for would be C15x33.9 
(this gives you 12 1/8" smallest dimension inside the flanges- bear in 
mind that the inside of the flanges are sloped, so you'll have 13 3/4" 
between the flanges at the toe, which will need to be filled/sealed if 
you intend to grout).  With this material your door frame will weigh in 
at an impressive 816 pounds!
I understand that you are reluctant to drill the masonry, but...a far 
more cost effective approach might be to drill and epoxy 3/4" allthread 
into your walls, burn corresponding holes in some 12"x 1/2" plate (or 
smaller-it isn't necessary for the plate to cover the entire wall 
thickness), plug weld the plate to the allthread, grind flush, done!
I'm an ironworker by trade and have made my living doing miscellaneous 
iron for most of my career.  I've done a LOT of door frame support steel 
and the above described method is in my experience the easiest and 
cheapest way to go, even if you have to rent a Hilti rotohammer for a 
half day to drill the required 7/8" holes.  It'll still be bomb-proof.
If you decide to consider this approach and need any assistance in what 
rotohammer, epoxy, etc., please don't hesitate to ask.
Good luck with whichever route you decide to go.
George.

On 7/24/2015 12:42 PM, jerry Frost wrote:
> Ordering structural shapes by dimension is expensive Bruce. I don't have my
> steel book but the terminology runs like this: "4" 7lb. channel." or "8"
> 18lb wide flange." Don't quote me on those numbers, they're examples only.
> Trying to order structural shapes: "I beam, wide flange, channel, etc." by
> thickness, flange and web dimension is running into the custom order world
> of EXPENSIVE. The best bet is to pick up a list of what the supplier has in
> stock or orders regularly if they're out and modify your design to meet
> common available stock. Engineered structures are designed with common stock
> unless it's something really big, say The World Trade Towers.
>
> Fabbing custom members with all the attendent hassles and hazards is a LOT
> more practical and economical options. But OH MAN is keeping long members
> from pulling into bacon shapes a job of high skilled work!
>
> I wish I had better ideas for you Andy but this is what happens when you
> don't do the planning and research work up front. What's the saying about
> the 6Ps ?
>
> Frosty
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
> .
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 9:13 AM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Desperation forces stoopid question time...
>
> You didn't say how thick.
> Why not get two pieces of flat stock, 4" x whatever thickness, and fab them
> to a web.  The web need not be solid, especially if there will be concrete
> blocks inserted.  In fact, you could probably do without the web at all,
> except maybe for convenience in construction.  You can get a welder for
> $100 these days, 15A @ 120V, if you don't already have that capability.
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 11:28 AM, Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:
>
>> I need 12" between flanges so the block will fit between.  The
>> uprights need to be about 103" tall (need to re-measure to be certain)
>> and cross sufficient for a 38" rough opening and a 45* miter.  4"
>> flange would be sufficient, but larger could be made to work.  Not
>> sure I'd want to go much smaller.
>>
>> Idea is to put the cross member in place long enough to get the
>> uprights under it.  Square and plumb it up, weld, and be done.  I
>> don't want to drill into the masonry.  I will grout the metal with
>> non-shrinking material and be done with it.  This will be super strong
>> and I do not ever want to have to think about it again, once finished.
>>
>> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<snip>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>