[TheForge] Desperation forces stoopid question time...

jerry Frost akfrosty at mtaonline.net
Fri Jul 24 15:42:31 EDT 2015


Ordering structural shapes by dimension is expensive Bruce. I don't have my
steel book but the terminology runs like this: "4" 7lb. channel." or "8"
18lb wide flange." Don't quote me on those numbers, they're examples only.
Trying to order structural shapes: "I beam, wide flange, channel, etc." by
thickness, flange and web dimension is running into the custom order world
of EXPENSIVE. The best bet is to pick up a list of what the supplier has in
stock or orders regularly if they're out and modify your design to meet
common available stock. Engineered structures are designed with common stock
unless it's something really big, say The World Trade Towers. 

Fabbing custom members with all the attendent hassles and hazards is a LOT
more practical and economical options. But OH MAN is keeping long members
from pulling into bacon shapes a job of high skilled work!

I wish I had better ideas for you Andy but this is what happens when you
don't do the planning and research work up front. What's the saying about
the 6Ps ?

Frosty

-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
.
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 9:13 AM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Desperation forces stoopid question time...

You didn't say how thick.
Why not get two pieces of flat stock, 4" x whatever thickness, and fab them
to a web.  The web need not be solid, especially if there will be concrete
blocks inserted.  In fact, you could probably do without the web at all,
except maybe for convenience in construction.  You can get a welder for
$100 these days, 15A @ 120V, if you don't already have that capability.

Bruce
NJ

On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 11:28 AM, Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:

> I need 12" between flanges so the block will fit between.  The 
> uprights need to be about 103" tall (need to re-measure to be certain) 
> and cross sufficient for a 38" rough opening and a 45* miter.  4" 
> flange would be sufficient, but larger could be made to work.  Not 
> sure I'd want to go much smaller.
>
> Idea is to put the cross member in place long enough to get the 
> uprights under it.  Square and plumb it up, weld, and be done.  I 
> don't want to drill into the masonry.  I will grout the metal with 
> non-shrinking material and be done with it.  This will be super strong 
> and I do not ever want to have to think about it again, once finished.
>
>
>
> On 7/22/15, 5:16 PM, Bruce . wrote:
>
>> Assuming you could get exactly what you want at a price you could 
>> afford, what dimensions would you go with -- flanges, web, thickness and
length?
>>
>> Bruce
>> NJ
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 4:47 PM, <wmullett at bright.net> wrote:
>>
>>  Why a channel?   You can weld up an unequal leg angle frame and set that
>>> into the opening then anchor to the wall through the leg.   I doubt that
>>> you really need to protect the jambs in a man door opening.
>>>
>>> ---- Original message ----
>>>
>>>> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2015 14:17:05 -0400
>>>> From: "TheForge" <theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net> (on behalf of 
>>>> Andrew
>>>>
>>> Vida <osan at netlabs.net>)
>>>
>>>> Subject: [TheForge] Desperation forces stoopid question time...
>>>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA 
>>>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>>
>>>> Hey guys - I am almost done with my basement.  My 2' crawl space 
>>>> under the house is not a 10 basement with a 12" thick poured concrete
floor.
>>>> The new foundation is 12" block beneath the footings supporting the 8"
>>>> block, above.  The gap was grouted using standard mortar given some 
>>>> oomph with about 7-8 pounds of Portland per 60# bag.  The house 
>>>> ain't going nowhere.
>>>>
>>>> I sawed the footing that ran across the 38" door opening, and that 
>>>> is where my question comes in.  I am looking for some c-channel, 12"
>>>> between flanges, to use as the door framing material, to which an 
>>>> armored door will be mounted.  Trouble is, I can't find any 
>>>> affordable channel.  Cheapest was WV steel, right here in 
>>>> Charleston, but still very pricey for po' trash like me @ $672 for 
>>>> 24 feet.  Online, they wanted almost $1600!
>>>>
>>>> This question is stupid because of proximities, but I figure I 
>>>> can't lose anything by asking, save some of your already low 
>>>> estimation of my intelligence. :)  Anyone here know anyone within 
>>>> perhaps 200 miles of Charleston WV that might have some such 
>>>> channel iron they might be looking to be rid of?  I need to get 
>>>> this done now before fall hits and if I don't get moving, well - you
know.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>>
>>>>      -Andy
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