[TheForge] To Nathan the new guy

Tue Sep 2 08:21:28 EDT 2014

Hours in the fire, and a large scrap pile.

It's not firewood, it's a vaasse.
Dan Tull
Georgia

On Mon, Sep 1, 2014 at 4:50 PM, jerry Frost <akfrosty at mtaonline.net> wrote:

> Welcome to the active branches NATHAN. RR rail makes a dandy anvil,
> especially stood on end, I've used them for decades even after finding a
> top
> shelf London pattern anvil. The only part of an anvil that's working for
> you
> is the couple sq/in directly under the hammer. Sure the weight increased
> it's resistance to acceleration which is good but not as necessary as folk
> think. Another really handy thing about rail on end is all the cool things
> you can use the flange and web for. A little grinding and you can turn the
> flange into hardies, butchers, fullers, acorn and round dies, etc.. Really
> handy shapes for sure. If you need a long flat face for straightening it's
> actually easier to sight down the flange and do it vertically. Strike the
> work gently with the hammer or better yet a wood mallet against the flange
> while you look down it to see what's what.
>
> Turning curves is easy. The fact is most beginners can't keep the work
> straight without repeated corrections. Any part of the steel that isn't
> supported by the anvil will bend not mash (forge). Turning say a scroll on
> the flat face is as simple as lifting the held end and striking behind the
> end resting on the anvil slip it a little farther for the next blow and
> strike behind the contact point. Once you have the curve started strike the
> outside of the curve backing it on the anvil and develop it how you wish.
>
> A similar technique is to extend the end off the edge of the anvil as Pete
> describes and start the bend. Well before it hits 90* you can turn it curve
> up on the anvil face and start working the outside of the curve.
>
> I know that sounds more confusing than helpful but once you see how it
> works
> it's pretty much exactly as I described. Experiment with soft wire using
> your leg for the anvil, you don't need a fire, anvil or hammers to model
> and
> rehearse the processes and techniques. Yeah, all this stuff takes practice.
> but I'll let you in on THE secret of blacksmithing. Ready? Shhhhh, don't
> tell anybody now, "A little knowledge and a LOT of practice." That's it, no
> fooling. There are only a handful of basic techniques and the most complex
> marvelous and amazing forgings are built up from pieces worked with the
> basics.
>
> How you apply the basic techniques will change in application but they're
> the same technique you just hold your tongue on the other side.
>
> Jer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Nathan
> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 10:01 AM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] To Nathan the new guy
>
> Thank you for all who have responded to my inquiry.  I live in central
> Wisconsin, so if you know of connections down this way, I would love to
> know.  As far as the railroad ties go, how to you do curves?  I will
> definitely have to look into proper mechanics when starting out as to save
> my back and joints.
>
> Nathan
>
> > Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 09:43:31 -0400
> > From: osan at netlabs.net
> > To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] To Nathan the new guy
> >
> > THis got me to thinking that another reason to contact those who
> > already know is the health issue.  Better to start off without some of
> > the bad habits many have and you would almost certainly adopt
> > otherwise.  The wrist, elbow, and shoulder can take a hell of a
> > beating because of bad hammering habits.  Even the great Peter Ross
> > (all HAIL!) wrecked his left elbow pretty good, so it really behooves
> > us to try to start off without the bad habits and the best way is to
> > know what they are.  Only people who've been doing it awhile are going to
> know that sort of thing.
> > On 8/27/14, 3:06 PM, Vincent Nakovics wrote:
> > > Nathan,
> > >    I recommend that you look around and see what other shaped material
> is available for next to nothing. Railroad track stood on it's end is fine,
> but there are others that provide a wider base and sufficient rebound to
> meet your needs. Anvils of old were square blocks. Having said that, as
> others have said contact a blacksmith affiliate to get off on the right
> foot. Remember to work the metal hot, we have gotten spoiled by improved
> steels in the anvils and thus work our metal a bit too cool sometimes. At
> least I have done and am sure will do so in the future without making an
> effort not to.
> > > Good Luck! and Happy Hammerin'
> > >
> > > See ya at the Forge!!!
> > >
> > > Vince Nakovics
> > >
> > > "It was done that way by the Master before, and the one before him,
> What
> need to write it down?"
> > >
> > > http://www.createspace.com/4515785
> > > https://www.createspace.com/3479733
> > > www.happyhavenforge.wordpress.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
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