[TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 125, Issue 3

[Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer]

Wayne:
Years ago i'd read that pure carnuba ( It's not from palm oil) is rather brittle and expensive.
So you need a commercial food safe wax that's high in carnuba wax ( it's the hard component in wax products.)

On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:21 PM, Wayne Ackman wrote:

We applied the permalac today.  I did tell them to wax it once a week.
I told them to find pure carnuba as it is  made from palm oil, I think.
Didn't have a source for them tho.  I never thought about mixing it with beeswax.
but it  looks like we are on track

> James Binnion <mailto:jbin at well.com>
> June 26, 2014 at 6:26 PM
> One thought in a different direction. Wax it, the wax will need to be reapplied on a regular basis but if you use beeswax and carnuba mix you have a food safe coating and any coating is going to fail in that environment so wax it once a week and make it part of the maintenance done by the staff.
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
> James Binnion
> jbin at well.com
> 
> 
> 
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> Wayne Ackman <mailto:stryker at vulcanpro.com>
> June 25, 2014 at 6:28 PM
> I have always used lacquer myself.  Thanks for the insight on your PU experience.
> I believe they have decided to use Permalac.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for your insights.  TheForge is always my go to for confusing issues.
> 
> Wayne
> 
> 
> Andy Gladish <mailto:anjgladish at gmail.com>
> June 25, 2014 at 8:52 AM
> Not a big fan of polyurethane on metal- it's kind of like powder coating in
> that it's ok til it's compromised, then you might as well strip it and
> start all over again.
> I've done quite a bit of restaurant work and work in the homes of
> restaurant owners and managers, and my go to finish for non stainless areas
> is Sculpt Noveau's Insta-Black, which is a selenium based cold blacking.
> It's very nice to work with, you can get it anywhere from an antique brown
> to a full-on black, depending on how fanatic you are with prep.
> Then, the kicker is to seal it with Permalac, a lacquer developed for
> outdoor use over patinas on metal sculpture, from the same company.
> I often use rattle can lacquer from the hardware store, but the important
> thing is that lacquer and polyurethane are two very different animals. Once
> you use lacquer, you probably won't use PU again on steel.
> Hope things work out for you!
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