[TheForge] TheForge Digest, Vol 125, Issue 3
James Binnion
jbin at well.com
Thu Jun 26 20:26:20 EDT 2014
One thought in a different direction. Wax it, the wax will need to be reapplied on a regular basis but if you use beeswax and carnuba mix you have a food safe coating and any coating is going to fail in that environment so wax it once a week and make it part of the maintenance done by the staff.
Jim
On Jun 25, 2014, at 5:28 PM, Wayne Ackman <stryker at vulcanpro.com> wrote:
> I have always used lacquer myself. Thanks for the insight on your PU experience.
> I believe they have decided to use Permalac.
>
> Thanks to everyone for your insights. TheForge is always my go to for confusing issues.
>
> Wayne
>
>> Andy Gladish <mailto:anjgladish at gmail.com>
>> June 25, 2014 at 8:52 AM
>> Not a big fan of polyurethane on metal- it's kind of like powder coating in
>> that it's ok til it's compromised, then you might as well strip it and
>> start all over again.
>> I've done quite a bit of restaurant work and work in the homes of
>> restaurant owners and managers, and my go to finish for non stainless areas
>> is Sculpt Noveau's Insta-Black, which is a selenium based cold blacking.
>> It's very nice to work with, you can get it anywhere from an antique brown
>> to a full-on black, depending on how fanatic you are with prep.
>> Then, the kicker is to seal it with Permalac, a lacquer developed for
>> outdoor use over patinas on metal sculpture, from the same company.
>> I often use rattle can lacquer from the hardware store, but the important
>> thing is that lacquer and polyurethane are two very different animals. Once
>> you use lacquer, you probably won't use PU again on steel.
>> Hope things work out for you!
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James Binnion
jbin at well.com
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