[TheForge] anvil repair

Tue Apr 22 21:17:42 EDT 2014

Dann: Did you hit a wrong key or are you resurrecting the subject? 

I did repair the anvil with hardfacing rod using the technique Andy laid
out. It turned out very well but if you want to know what rod I used I'll
have to dig deep to find it or call the welding supply tomorrow and ask.

Jer

-----Original Message-----
From: TheForge [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dann
Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 3:14 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] anvil repair

Jerry is frequently, exactly on target.

I have welded up 4 old damaged anvils  & after ground  them down with a side
grinder and then to the "near" with a flap disk.
Strong, probably better than original.

No regretts.. Each time   I heated the mass of the old anvil with a 
larger weed burner propane burner, and after welding let it air cool.

At 02:24 AM 7/22/2003, you wrote:
>Jer, we've been doing it this way over 15 years and to my knowledge 
>there has not been a single failure.  My 128# wrought anvil was the 
>guinea pig and we had at least 4 different rods in it to see which 
>worked best including 2 by Stoody, the Hobart, and one other I do not 
>recall.  The Hobart was BY FAR the best.  That anvil sat in the shop at 
>Allaire village for 2 or 3 years being abused by all the newbies and 
>other loons whom I have witnessed do things to anvils and other 
>equipment that demands shooting.  The only divot came out of one of the 
>Stoody beads.  The rest are immaculate to this day and I have wailed on 
>that little anvil a fair bit.  My 106# PW is all Lincore 50 and after 
>more than 10 years not the smallest hint of a chip anything along any 
>of the still razor sharp edges.
>
>It is difficult to argue with success.
>
>On 4/26/2013 2:20 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
>>
>>These are ALL HARDFACING rods and wire!! ARGHHHHH!!!
>>
>>They're abrasion resistant and really unsuitable unless you're 
>>planning on rubbing rocks on your anvil face.
>>
>>Use buildup rod or wire, it's intended to provdie an IMPACT resistant 
>>substrate so hardfacing won't check and spall in flexion. Buildup 
>>doesn't work harden, it's already impact resistant enough to take a 
>>dozer's worth of abuse without denting or work hardening. You can lay 
>>multiple passes without preheating, post heating or worrying about it.
>>It's designed to build up and replace LOST steel. It grinds well with 
>>common stone cups or right angle disks,NOT blue or green wheels, just 
>>plain old grinding disks and cups.
>>
>>GET OFF THE HARDFACING KICK! It's a myth and not only doesn't work it 
>>damages anvil faces with all the BADNESS of over heating HC steel 
>>faces!, It also causes many times the work to finish but I don't 
>>really CARE if you guys want to do ten times the work neccessary for a 
>>poor surface. I DO care about all the anvils hardfacing rod and wire 
>>are ruining!
>>
>>I know of which I speak, I ran hardfacing rods and wire for 20 years 
>>and had to clean up messes made by guys who THOUGHT harder was better.
>>DOLTS! Yeah, I've run a few THOUSAND lbs. of Lincore 50 and it's 
>>superior for what it's intended HARD FACING, NOT anvil repair.
>>
>>Jer
>>
>>On 4/25/2013 5:10 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>>>Grind all broken areas until nothing but bright metal shows. Follow 
>>>cracks all the way until they are no more. Preheat anvil to 400* even 
>>>if manufacturer of hardface material says it is not needed. It is.
>>>
>>>Lay in your hardface material. Grind to your desired geometry. Done.
>>>
>>>The best electrodes we (NJBA) ever used was Hobart SmoothArc 600, but 
>>>that does not come in wire - stick only. For wire we used Lincore 50, 
>>>though I believe they have gone to Lincore 55 now and it works very 
>>>well. I prefer material that goes on at full hardness. The work 
>>>hardening materials are not to my liking. YMMV, of course.
>>>
>>>On 4/24/2013 7:14 AM, James wrote:
>>>>I know this has been discussed before but I need a refresher course...
>>>>
>>>>Bought an old (1856) William Foster anvil a few weeks ago. The top 
>>>>is pretty flat but the edges are beaten off almost all the way 
>>>>around and a couple places that appear to have rips or tears in the top.
>>>>
>>>>According to the Postman book, Anvils in America it has a wrought 
>>>>base and a steel top that was forge welded.
>>>>
>>>>If you were to attempt to rebuild the corners/edges of this anvil, 
>>>>what procedure would you follow? And what electrodes would you use?
>>>>
>>>>My inclination is to clean it as much as possible, pre-heat to 
>>>>about400 degrees F, weld the bottom of any holes that cannot be 
>>>>cleaned without doing serious damage to the anvil with a 6010 
>>>>electrode (because it tolerates rust and junk and penetrates 
>>>>deeply). Then build up the surfaces with something like a 7018, 
>>>>grind down, etc. (I've read the
>>>>7018 works pretty well rebuilding an anvil.)
>>>>
>>>>I have an almost full 50# box of Lincoln Abrasoweld that I use 
>>>>occasionally but don't know if it's for impact, abrasion or both. I 
>>>>hesitate to use an extremely hard rod on an anvil. On the other 
>>>>hand, in the 40 years that I've been welding I've used Stoody, 
>>>>Hi-Alloy, Hobart, specialty rods etc. with generally good success. 
>>>>Those rods used to be pretty common here (100 mi. NE of Dallas, TX) 
>>>>but now you just about can't get any special stick rods (Ni for cast 
>>>>iron being and Hi-Alloy
>>>>500 the only exceptions).
>>>>
>>>>I presume this is due to the extreme popularity of MIG machines and 
>>>>the guys using portable rigs only use 6010/11 and 7018 for most 
>>>>work. All that to say, specialty rods are hard to find here and the 
>>>>boys in the welding shops aren't very helpful.
>>>>
>>>>Would you go to the trouble to find a different rod selection than 
>>>>what I have mentioned and what procedure would you recommend if 
>>>>different from the above? Since Postman says the body of this anvil 
>>>>is wrought - and I've never stick welded wrought iron - will I have 
>>>>any difficulties if I get down into the wrought part?
>>>>
>>>>And one more question, just how well would a MIG w/ standard 
>>>>off-the-shelf MIG wire and 92/8 or 75/25 shielding gas work to 
>>>>repair an anvil?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>James
>>
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