[TheForge] anvil repair

Tue Apr 22 19:14:13 EDT 2014

Jerry is frequently, exactly on target.

I have welded up 4 old damaged anvils  & after ground  them down with 
a side grinder and then to the "near" with a flap disk.
Strong, probably better than original.

No regretts.. Each time   I heated the mass of the old anvil with a 
larger weed burner propane burner, and after welding let it air cool.

At 02:24 AM 7/22/2003, you wrote:
>Jer, we've been doing it this way over 15 years and to my knowledge 
>there has not been a single failure.  My 128# wrought anvil was the 
>guinea pig and we had at least 4 different rods in it to see which 
>worked best including 2 by Stoody, the Hobart, and one other I do 
>not recall.  The Hobart was BY FAR the best.  That anvil sat in the 
>shop at Allaire village for 2 or 3 years being abused by all the 
>newbies and other loons whom I have witnessed do things to anvils 
>and other equipment that demands shooting.  The only divot came out 
>of one of the Stoody beads.  The rest are immaculate to this day and 
>I have wailed on that little anvil a fair bit.  My 106# PW is all 
>Lincore 50 and after more than 10 years not the smallest hint of a 
>chip anything along any of the still razor sharp edges.
>
>It is difficult to argue with success.
>
>On 4/26/2013 2:20 PM, Jerry Frost wrote:
>>
>>These are ALL HARDFACING rods and wire!! ARGHHHHH!!!
>>
>>They're abrasion resistant and really unsuitable unless you're planning
>>on rubbing rocks on your anvil face.
>>
>>Use buildup rod or wire, it's intended to provdie an IMPACT resistant
>>substrate so hardfacing won't check and spall in flexion. Buildup
>>doesn't work harden, it's already impact resistant enough to take a
>>dozer's worth of abuse without denting or work hardening. You can lay
>>multiple passes without preheating, post heating or worrying about it.
>>It's designed to build up and replace LOST steel. It grinds well with
>>common stone cups or right angle disks,NOT blue or green wheels, just
>>plain old grinding disks and cups.
>>
>>GET OFF THE HARDFACING KICK! It's a myth and not only doesn't work it
>>damages anvil faces with all the BADNESS of over heating HC steel
>>faces!, It also causes many times the work to finish but I don't really
>>CARE if you guys want to do ten times the work neccessary for a poor
>>surface. I DO care about all the anvils hardfacing rod and wire are
>>ruining!
>>
>>I know of which I speak, I ran hardfacing rods and wire for 20 years and
>>had to clean up messes made by guys who THOUGHT harder was better.
>>DOLTS! Yeah, I've run a few THOUSAND lbs. of Lincore 50 and it's
>>superior for what it's intended HARD FACING, NOT anvil repair.
>>
>>Jer
>>
>>On 4/25/2013 5:10 PM, Andrew Vida wrote:
>>>Grind all broken areas until nothing but bright metal shows. Follow
>>>cracks all the way until they are no more. Preheat anvil to 400* even
>>>if manufacturer of hardface material says it is not needed. It is.
>>>
>>>Lay in your hardface material. Grind to your desired geometry. Done.
>>>
>>>The best electrodes we (NJBA) ever used was Hobart SmoothArc 600, but
>>>that does not come in wire - stick only. For wire we used Lincore 50,
>>>though I believe they have gone to Lincore 55 now and it works very
>>>well. I prefer material that goes on at full hardness. The work
>>>hardening materials are not to my liking. YMMV, of course.
>>>
>>>On 4/24/2013 7:14 AM, James wrote:
>>>>I know this has been discussed before but I need a refresher course...
>>>>
>>>>Bought an old (1856) William Foster anvil a few weeks ago. The top is
>>>>pretty flat but the edges are beaten off almost all the way around and a
>>>>couple places that appear to have rips or tears in the top.
>>>>
>>>>According to the Postman book, Anvils in America it has a wrought base
>>>>and a steel top that was forge welded.
>>>>
>>>>If you were to attempt to rebuild the corners/edges of this anvil, what
>>>>procedure would you follow? And what electrodes would you use?
>>>>
>>>>My inclination is to clean it as much as possible, pre-heat to about400
>>>>degrees F, weld the bottom of any holes that cannot be cleaned without
>>>>doing serious damage to the anvil with a 6010 electrode (because it
>>>>tolerates rust and junk and penetrates deeply). Then build up the
>>>>surfaces with something like a 7018, grind down, etc. (I've read the
>>>>7018 works pretty well rebuilding an anvil.)
>>>>
>>>>I have an almost full 50# box of Lincoln Abrasoweld that I use
>>>>occasionally but don't know if it's for impact, abrasion or both. I
>>>>hesitate to use an extremely hard rod on an anvil. On the other hand, in
>>>>the 40 years that I've been welding I've used Stoody, Hi-Alloy, Hobart,
>>>>specialty rods etc. with generally good success. Those rods used to be
>>>>pretty common here (100 mi. NE of Dallas, TX) but now you just about
>>>>can't get any special stick rods (Ni for cast iron being and Hi-Alloy
>>>>500 the only exceptions).
>>>>
>>>>I presume this is due to the extreme popularity of MIG machines and the
>>>>guys using portable rigs only use 6010/11 and 7018 for most work. All
>>>>that to say, specialty rods are hard to find here and the boys in the
>>>>welding shops aren't very helpful.
>>>>
>>>>Would you go to the trouble to find a different rod selection than what
>>>>I have mentioned and what procedure would you recommend if different
>>>>from the above? Since Postman says the body of this anvil is wrought -
>>>>and I've never stick welded wrought iron - will I have any difficulties
>>>>if I get down into the wrought part?
>>>>
>>>>And one more question, just how well would a MIG w/ standard
>>>>off-the-shelf MIG wire and 92/8 or 75/25 shielding gas work to repair an
>>>>anvil?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>James
>>
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