[TheForge] Clutch lining material for a 50lb Little Giant

Wed Sep 26 19:23:33 EDT 2012

Thank you for such an encourageing and entertaining "Easy LG Clutch Change" 
tips and tricks expose, Dr. Steve! (I'm still laughing, you paint wonderful 
visuals, been there done similar)

Happily my shop is a red iron steel building and the hammer is under the 
center truss so lifting a few hundred lbs doesn't require much jib building. 
Think I'm okay using an electric winch? I don't have a chain hoist or 
coffing hoist. I saw one at a moving sale but as usual it was OLD so must be 
an antique and so very valuable. I passed on it. <sigh>

I guess I'll have to call or E-mail Sid for the DVD. I have the manual but I 
like watching TV so it MUST be better. Eh? Actually I'd move my computer 
room TV to the shop and use it'd DVD player for on the spot distraction. The 
best kind you know, without the TV going while I'm doing the job I'd have to 
rely on my memory for enough confusion to make some fundamental mistakes.

Seriously, I wish I could've been there to give you a hand, I've done a lot 
of rigging and two brains are better than one.

Jer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. Stephen A Bloom" <sabloom at ironflower.com>
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Clutch lining material for a 50lb Little Giant

> At 07:46 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
>>I forgot something I wanted to ask in my last reply. Is there an easy way 
>>to
>>change out the clutch in a 50lb. LG? Seeing as we now know where to get 
>>the
>>right stuff I just may change my old (100 last January) hammer's clutch if
>>it isn't too much hassle. It's just me and I don't really have much lift
>>capacity nor is my balance and stability so good anymore. Stupid TREE.
>
> Well -- not easy but...
>
> 1) fabricate a pipe/hoist assembly that spans at least two trusses
> ... put it over the hammer. Ok, drag the 6' ladder under one end,
> climb on it, get one end in position (1 step away from the "DO NOT
> USE AS A STEP" step) and get one end of the pipe up on the 10'
> truss.  Drag the ladder to the other end and get the 2nd end
> positioned.  Find out that the first end isn't quite right.  Repeat.
>
> 2) Eventually dig out the 2-ton chain hoist, climb the ladder and get
> it hooked onto the suspension ring.... Yes, I remembered to put the
> ring on the pole before step #1.  Find out that the hook on the hoist
> doesn't quite fit the ring.  Try to find the safety straps with the
> big fat hooks.  Find out that those hooks are also a bit small.  Make
> a bigger ring.
>
> 3) Haul the hoist up (and try to remember why a 2-ton was better than
> a 1-ton)  and finally get the hoist in position.  Ok -- I left out
> the time the chains got tangled on the ladder and the incredible
> amount of grease I must have used to keep the chain from rusting when
> I put the unit away in the 50 cal can years ago....but I
> digress....or maybe degrease....
>
> 4) Remove the brake, remove the 6 massive bolts that hold the caps on
> the hammer (realize that the 13/16" wrench has vanished, so grind out
> a 3/4" wrench from the crap pile to fit), realize that an active
> hammer does not have rust - just oceans of black grease,  remember
> not to scratch your nose...ok...go wash and get back on the
> ladder....find the wrench again....
>
> 4) Run lifting straps through the clutch pulley and mating surfaces
> and over the eccentric (carefully positioned at the top of the
> rotation 'cause that has GOT to be the best way).  Lift.  Find out
> that the flywheel is thicker opposite the eccentric and it is just
> hangs on the top of the hammer.  Reset the straps. Worry about
> lifting from the eccentric when it is on the bottom.  Lift (being
> REALLY paranoid about messing up the babbit bearings).  Realize that
> with the clutch pulley and drum locked together, the shaft can't turn
> and lifting with the eccentric on the bottom isn't a a big
> deal).   Slowly lower the assembly to a "convenient" saw horse -- ok
> -- maybe down the front wasn't the best location, but with one hand
> doing the chain, and another swinging the assembly over the arms,
> etc., it did work.
>
> 5) Strip off the old lining.  Call Sid and beg for a new
> lining.  Wait for the mailman. Review the DVD.  (we're now in the
> future)... follow Sid's recommendations, then reverse the steps above
> -- a snap!
>
> Actually, the tear down took maybe an hour.  I expect the
> rebuild  will be another couple of hours.  Had I viewed the DVD
> before hacking the job the first time (typical - not doing the "What
> could go wrong" thinking) - the 2nd lining would have lasted as long
> as the first - about 20 years.  If I was really worried about the
> ladder, I would have just hauled in the scaffold set(s) and set up a
> decent work platform.......as long as doing that didn't hit the PVC
> water pipe feeding the slack tub.....
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Step 1 : Actually Read-The-Manual... ok .. the DVD Sid Suedmeier has
> produced....which I didn't do...
>
> Step 2 : Get wide material -- the clutch surface is a cone (more or
> less).  Try to cheap out and use a rectangle means less-than-optimal
> fit and then (my bad) it comes back to haunt you.
>
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