[TheForge] Clutch lining material for a 50lb Little Giant

[Dr. Stephen A Bloom]

At 07:46 PM 9/24/2012, you wrote:
>I forgot something I wanted to ask in my last reply. Is there an easy way to
>change out the clutch in a 50lb. LG? Seeing as we now know where to get the
>right stuff I just may change my old (100 last January) hammer's clutch if
>it isn't too much hassle. It's just me and I don't really have much lift
>capacity nor is my balance and stability so good anymore. Stupid TREE.

Well -- not easy but...

1) fabricate a pipe/hoist assembly that spans at least two trusses 
... put it over the hammer. Ok, drag the 6' ladder under one end, 
climb on it, get one end in position (1 step away from the "DO NOT 
USE AS A STEP" step) and get one end of the pipe up on the 10' 
truss.  Drag the ladder to the other end and get the 2nd end 
positioned.  Find out that the first end isn't quite right.  Repeat.

2) Eventually dig out the 2-ton chain hoist, climb the ladder and get 
it hooked onto the suspension ring.... Yes, I remembered to put the 
ring on the pole before step #1.  Find out that the hook on the hoist 
doesn't quite fit the ring.  Try to find the safety straps with the 
big fat hooks.  Find out that those hooks are also a bit small.  Make 
a bigger ring.

3) Haul the hoist up (and try to remember why a 2-ton was better than 
a 1-ton)  and finally get the hoist in position.  Ok -- I left out 
the time the chains got tangled on the ladder and the incredible 
amount of grease I must have used to keep the chain from rusting when 
I put the unit away in the 50 cal can years ago....but I 
digress....or maybe degrease....

4) Remove the brake, remove the 6 massive bolts that hold the caps on 
the hammer (realize that the 13/16" wrench has vanished, so grind out 
a 3/4" wrench from the crap pile to fit), realize that an active 
hammer does not have rust - just oceans of black grease,  remember 
not to scratch your nose...ok...go wash and get back on the 
ladder....find the wrench again....

4) Run lifting straps through the clutch pulley and mating surfaces 
and over the eccentric (carefully positioned at the top of the 
rotation 'cause that has GOT to be the best way).  Lift.  Find out 
that the flywheel is thicker opposite the eccentric and it is just 
hangs on the top of the hammer.  Reset the straps. Worry about 
lifting from the eccentric when it is on the bottom.  Lift (being 
REALLY paranoid about messing up the babbit bearings).  Realize that 
with the clutch pulley and drum locked together, the shaft can't turn 
and lifting with the eccentric on the bottom isn't a a big 
deal).   Slowly lower the assembly to a "convenient" saw horse -- ok 
-- maybe down the front wasn't the best location, but with one hand 
doing the chain, and another swinging the assembly over the arms, 
etc., it did work.

5) Strip off the old lining.  Call Sid and beg for a new 
lining.  Wait for the mailman. Review the DVD.  (we're now in the 
future)... follow Sid's recommendations, then reverse the steps above 
-- a snap!

Actually, the tear down took maybe an hour.  I expect the 
rebuild  will be another couple of hours.  Had I viewed the DVD 
before hacking the job the first time (typical - not doing the "What 
could go wrong" thinking) - the 2nd lining would have lasted as long 
as the first - about 20 years.  If I was really worried about the 
ladder, I would have just hauled in the scaffold set(s) and set up a 
decent work platform.......as long as doing that didn't hit the PVC 
water pipe feeding the slack tub.....

Steve







Step 1 : Actually Read-The-Manual... ok .. the DVD Sid Suedmeier has 
produced....which I didn't do...

Step 2 : Get wide material -- the clutch surface is a cone (more or 
less).  Try to cheap out and use a rectangle means less-than-optimal 
fit and then (my bad) it comes back to haunt you.