[TheForge] Anvil Repair - 7018 Rod use

[Ron Childers]

Dan,
I keep my rods in a hot box, especially 7018 as they are, as you stated,
very hygroscopic. In industry they are put back in the box twice a shift
if I remember correctly, yet they have had an open 50# box in a local
dealer for several years and I guess they weigh out however many the
customer wants. They said they still work fine for most applications.
Jeff uses 11018 and swears it is harder than most. Yeah, as you said,
(harder??). I really don't know, but I did weld a new tail on an anvil
at the Panhandle Pioneer Settlement. It was broken through the hardy
hole so I ground a new hardy hole and used 7018 to weld the tail
extension which is 1 & 1/2" thick. That was 4 years ago and the students
are still using it. Btw, I have about used up that 5 gal bucket of
6014's you gave me in 2005. (Not on anvils). (:
Ron 

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of dan tull
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 2:19 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Anvil Repair - 7018 Rod use

Why are you using 7018?

It's a low Hydrogen rod used by pipe and tank welders that have to have 
x-ray/magnaflux. Soon as you open the can, it starts absorbing and
ruining. 
That's why they throw away partial boxes at the end of the day.  The
70XX is 
stronger(harder??) than 60XX only in tension.Anvil pounding is
compression.

Why don't you look at MG750 rod. It was created for repair for the ROCK 
CRUSHING industry.
HIGHEST IMPACT rod. Not abrasaweld that just grinds off hard. Extra
benefit: 
NO pre-post heating. DUH! Plus it is excellent for welding dis-similar 
carbon steels(as in mild hardy tangs to high carbon tools).  Lay a base
w/ a 
6011 "plunge" rod to tie face to body, and lay MG750 over. Hint : watch
out 
for popping slag as your weld cools.

Expensive? $2/stick, so split a box w/ another smith.

I have patched up many anvils in 24 yrs, and have not had a failure w/
this 
rod.
And I don't own stock in MG.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Vincent_Nakovics at nps.gov>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Anvil Repair - 7018 Rod use


> Thanks for the input Jerry,
>
> I was worried that I had it wrong. We have repaired 2 anvils using the
> preheat and 7018 method now. Last night was the first time I used my
anvil
> that I repaired just last week. after I was done making my piece I
couldn
> not resist tapping the edges that we repaired with my 3lb hammer. They
> weren't full smashing blows, but you wouldn't want your fingers there.
The
> repair spots did not dent. I was happily impressed! The NJBA I believe
did
> a bunch of repairs and that's where I got all my info from. (I could
be
> wrong about the org, I just jotted down the pertinent stuff a while 
> back.).
> So far it has worked for the two that we have done. Preheat anvil, use

> 7018
> Rod. grind, sand, walla!
>
> Vince
>
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