[TheForge] Damascus rolling mill

[doveknives at aol.com]

 The question was asked "what kind of rolling mill I use".  I originally started with the Hugh McDonald design incorporating a few changes.  First, I made it taller, I am 6'2" tall, so bending over was tiresome for me, already did that with my power hammer.  Made both the PH and the rolling mill taller.  The LG PH 50# got a one foot lift which helped, now my Late model LG PH proudly stands there.  The rolling mills I made out of rectangular sched. 40 tubing and made them 5' tall so that I can stand comfortably and work all day.  One rolling mill has smooth rolls for drawing out to final thickness, and the second mill has "V"s cut to allow .75, .5, .375, .25 square to be rolled.  This is extremely helpful in making uniform square stock that I use in making composite and mosaic Damascus.  

  The main changes that I recommend besides making it taller is first: to use pillow block bearings, easier to get, got mine at a surplus metal yard for $2 ea and they had 1.5 bores.  Second : really beef up the pressure strut coming from the pedal.  I have bent both of mine before I beefed them up.  Third:  Do not fall to the temptation to put a Hydraulic cylinder in place of the foot operated pressure strut.  You REALLY can feel how the metal is moving and can ride it kind of like slipping the clutch on a car or motorcycle to get a desired effect.  In the case of the rolling mill it allows you to feel when the steel is really moving and you can crank harder in the lever, or conversely, if the steel is cooling you can ease off the lever to avoid locking up the rollers.  In the case of these home made rolling mills move power and greater is not really gaining you much.

  Now, I have a really great friend that makes his Damascus (pattern welded to be proper) steel in my shop, he sold his Nazel 1B (Oh the travesty of it)  and bought a rolling mill made somewhere in Oregon or Washington state, I will have to look at the plate.  This monster REALLY works wonders!!!!  It's frame is 1.5" thick steel, the rolls are 5 " in diameter and about 16" long and both are powered be double power transfer chains driven by ah hydrostatic motor connected to a five HP pump mounted on the base.  Great machine!  Thinking of making one very similar with some modifications I desire.  BTW the only reason Owen sold his Nazel was I bought a 200# Russian made self contained air hammer that is truly the nicest PH of its size that I have ever run.  It has great control, never does a errant or unasked for tap, and has a lever that reverses which side of the tup the air is directed to under power so that I can do delicate planishing blows as well as clamping.  My wife calls it my Russian Mistress, I call it "Delicate Flower".  A Russian friend is going to paint that title on the front cylinder and a tattoo artist friend is going to airbrush a rose in-between the words.  I figure if it is my Mistress, it deserves a flower :  )   My poor 25 # lg  is getting a little neglected due to the controllability of DF.

  Guy's   making pattern welded steel is really not as hard as it is made out to be if you try dry welding.  I did not invent any of this, just adapted it.  If you have problems give me a call, number is on the web site I think, I will answer your questions to the best of my humble ability.

  BTW, we are very fortunate to have James Binnion on this forum, he is an amazing artist in Mokume, I have learned much from him and as of yet we have not met.  James has a deep wealth of knowledge we can draw from as so many of you do as well.  No he didn't pay me to say that, at least not much  : )

If you are ever in the Denver area, I am about a 1/2 hour north of DIA airport, love to have visitors.


Trusting HIM,

Steve Rollert
keenedgeknives.com
doveknives.com