[TheForge] pattern welded steel
Bruce Freeman
freemab222 at gmail.com
Sun Apr 3 09:50:17 EDT 2011
Steve,
By "dry welding" do you mean without flux?
If so, could you give us your reasons for dispensing with flux. What
thickness material do you use in your billets? Do you use an
induced-draft forge or a blown-air forge? Do you do anything special
to adjust your flame conditions?
I've heard arguments on both sides of the debate, and am curious.
Gas forges are notorious for producing scale. My take is that this
means the burner is adjusted wrong. (Or you're using a blown-air
forge! Do I reveal my prejudices? 8^) If you heat a piece of metal
with a torch flame, you can actually remove the oxide (not heavy
scale, necessarily, but thin oxide) using the reducing portion of the
flame in the center -- a simple demonstration. (In an oxygen
atmosphere, this is a transient effect -- the oxide will reform when
you remove the flame.) Hence, it seems to me that proper adjustment
of the burner could result in conditions inside the forge that are not
scale-producing. (Let me hasten to point out that if the gas doesn't
burn completely INSIDE the forge, then it will finish its burning
OUTSIDE the forge, and may produce high levels of carbon monoxide. We
can deal with these things if we're ready for them.)
On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 9:30 AM, <doveknives at aol.com> wrote:
>
> As mentioned before, the amount of loss is dependent on your approach. I have moved to dry welding in propane fire with multiple re stack. Lose less than 3% of weight, only re stack once. Please consider some of your options for forge welding. I am glad to help if you like. Making pattern welded steel is one of the most exciting and full filling experiences around at least for me.
>
>
>
> Trusting HIM,
> Steve Rollert
> keenedgeknives.com
> doveknives.com
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--
Bruce
NJ
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