[TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair

Sat Oct 16 18:53:09 EDT 2010

About what I figured. The Sway isn't really bad, only about the thickness of
a quarter tail to step at the worst of it. If I can find someone in-town
with the ability to grind the face flat for a reasonable price, I'll
probably go that route as it will clean up the edges a bit and get them
where I'll have a small length where they are semi-square. I like to have a
spot on the face where I can get a nice, clean shoulder with 1/2 on blows,
but it is far from critical. I was mostly just wondering if there was a
reliable way to clean them up that wasn't a huge pain.

Jason Nass - MacTalis Ironworks
me at wargoth.com

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 4:09 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair

You're WAY overthinking this.   Get some Lincore 50 wire or SmoothArc 
600 rod.  Grind out the chips to clean metal. Preheat to 400*.  Lay in your
filler.  Grind.  Let cool.  Done.

DOn't worry about sway unless it is really pronounced and is affecting the
work.  Dead-flat is not necessary - some say not even wanted.

You can increase the edge readii, too, though I am not a fan of this
approach.  Leave as much of the anvil in place as possible, IMO.

Jason Nass wrote:
> While we are on the topic of anvil repair, what is the best way to address
> chipping along the edges, I recently picked up a 1860-1900 era Peter
Wright
> 157# at a good price, $1.50/lb. and it has a little chipping along both
> edges, not so severe as to be unworkable, but a little in the way
sometimes.
> I am torn between taking a little off the face, (which I will probably do
> anyway because it has a tiny bit of sway),  or just making the rounds on
the
> shoulders a little larger so that the chips disappear into the shoulders.
> Any reliable ways to build up the shoulders without completely trashing
the
> heat treat? I've seen the process, and while I am confident I could pull
it
> off, I really don't want to anneal it, mill it and then re-harden it if I
> can avoid it. 
> 
> Jason Nass - MacTalis Ironworks
> me at wargoth.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 1:38 PM
> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Fw: Anvil repair
> 
> Mike--
> 
> That's absolutely correct, and Josh (who may be lurking here) has the
> Fisher-Norris patterns to prove it.
> 
> Fisher-Norris had a special mold form for sand casting anvils.  It looked
> just like the anvil, but had an extra lump on the top.  The sand mold was
> made around the pattern, the pattern removed, and the surface plate - plus
> an extra cast steel plate for the top of the horn
> - was inserted.  This left an anvil-shaped void below the plates, and
> another void above it.
> 
> The mold was filled inverted, so the void "above" the plate filled first
and
> pre-heated the plate to red heat.  The rest of the mold was then filled
and
> the whole allowed to cool.  The chunk of cast iron on top of the anvil had
> not adhered, and was easily knocked off.  But the pre-heating allowed the
> rest of the anvil adhere to the plates (which is Fisher's discovery) and a
> solid anvil resulted.
> 
> On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 11:17 AM, CGRAF <adveniam at att.net> wrote:
>> I seem to remember ( and Seeming to remember is happening more and 
>> more) that some of the tool steel tops were welded to the base of cast 
>> anvils by placing the heated steel plate in the mold and pouring the cast
> over it.
>> It might work, but I cannot find any corroborating documents in my 
>> piles of crap.
>>
>> At any rate it sounds less nasty than trying to forge weld a 3/4 inch 
>> plate onto a base.
>>
>> Am I remembering something real or just a dream?
>>
>> Mike Graf
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> 
> 
> 
> --
> Bruce
> NJ
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