[TheForge] Carnauba wax (Was: Japan dryer)
Ron Childers
munlaw2 at hcsmail.com
Mon Mar 8 14:58:32 EST 2010
What kind of wax is used for toilet bowl sealer? New, out of the box it
seemed to dry fairly hard when melted and brushed on some of my own junk as
an experiment. Ron C
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Fels & Phoebe
Palmer
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:18 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Carnauba wax (Was: Japan dryer)
A convincing argument Reis, for most applications.
"> I never much liked being a chemist, or an alchemist, and mixing used
> motor oil with essence of cancer and a pinch of emphysema over a hot
> fire of plastic milk jugs- I just like to buy a paint or varnish that
> some idiot PHD spent years perfecting in a million dollar lab, and
> then is produced in a state of the art factory- call me old fashioned,
> I guess...."
Grin.
The question on commercially available carnauba waxes is, what % is
actually the right stuff. ( don't forget car waxes).
ries wrote:
> I am a little confused- Caranauba wax is available in EVERY
> woodworking mail order catalog, at most every woodworking store like
> Wood crafters or Lee Valley, at most decent paint stores, and most
> good hardware stores.
> I have never had a problem finding it.
> I use it occasionally, in paste form, on wood, or stone. But on metal,
> I just hate callbacks, and rubbing and buffing wax is just too much
> work for me.
>
> On indoor stuff, I am a fan of clear krylon spray paint. Takes
> seconds, lasts years, gives a slight sheen but is not thick or glossy,
> and easy to reapply.
>
> On outdoor projects, I either use stainless, or have pieces hot dipped
> galvanized, or, if the customer insists, powder coated, although I
> tell em how powder coating will fall off after a few years, and cost a
> fortune to fix.
> Or, I just let stuff rust.
> Got a few signs now in downtown Edison (population 130) that are
> happily rusting away, 3 to 5 years and counting, I figure they will
> outlast me by a good 30 years or so, and, if I am in the ground, I
> aint rising up to do any callbacks...
>
> ries
>
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2010, at 10:50 AM, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike;
> A while back i found a supplier of second grade carnauba who was only
> willing to sell in 55 gal drums...for a reasonable price,
> considering..but then i would find myself in the retail wax
> business...not where i wanted to go.
>
> Mike Spencer wrote:
>>> Mike..did you apply the carnauba mixed with other oils or waxes?
>> Yeah. Melted it together with a little linseed oil. Not enough to
>> make it soft and pasty but a little less hard. Almost alway applied
>> it with torch heat to flow it into crevices and surface textures.
>>
>> Off and on, I fooled around with different mixtures including adding
>> beeswax and/or turpentine. I've also use commercial paste wax. I
>> forget the brand and don't know if that particular kind is still
>> available. It claimed to contain carnauba wax.
>>
>>> Read somewhere that the carnauba was kinda brittle..
>> Yes, brittle and very hard. Also, any excess straight carnauba that
>> melts and collects in crevices tends to look crusty and white and has
>> to be re-melted, tooth-brushed, scraped off or otherwise tediously
>> dealt with.
>>
>>
>> FWIW,
>> - Mike
>>
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> Ries Niemi
> Industrial Artist
> http://www.riesniemi.com/
>
>
>
>
>
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