[TheForge] Permalac steps

[Cindy and James]

  Andy, I think the STEP that is missing is the STOP RUST step.

It has been a year since I did a rust patina, but in my experience, 
everything I came in four basic sections.

1.  Create the patina (rust).  Most patinas are rust and are created by 
either time and weathering or chemicals, usually acids.
2.  Stop the rust.  Use some chemical that will neutralize the rusting 
agent.  This may be a solution of baking soda or one of the chemicals 
sold commercially.  King Arch sells 1 that I have used but I usually 
just use Baking Soda.  Rinse well.  But you have to be careful not to 
ruin the patina in the process.  But the stop rust step is important 
because if you don't stop the chemical reaction it will keep going under 
your sealer - whatever that is.
3.  Air dry - gently.  It is important to get the piece dry as quickly 
as possible to prevent rust from starting again.  Time is truly "of the 
essence" here.  I use an air compressor to assist the drying process.
4.  Apply sealer, in this case Permalac, by spray, multiple thin coats.  
I have used a spray gun to do this on larger projects such as staircases 
and large pieces such as tables, esp where you have a large flat area.  
Permalac dries extremely rapidly and you have to MOVE to keep the 
surface wet so you don't get a line between application zones.

I tried painting a simple little hand railing last year... with a brush 
using a Sherwin Williams Industrial enamel.  (I too have painted w/ a 
brush for 28 years).  It looked like crap and would not dry.  So after a 
week's lost time, I stripped it, applied phosphoric acid, neutralized 
the acid, rinsed and then used a hand held pot sprayer.  Wonderful 
smooth finish.  (Turned out to be a color the lady didn't like ... but 
that's another story.)

Permalac comes in spray cans if you don't have spray equipment.  I don't 
recommend hand brushing Permalac.

All this said, and I've seen similar thread discussion before, in my 
experience (I've only been doing black iron work full time for about 7 
years now) the FINISH is the most difficult part of the job.

James

On 8/14/2010 1:42 AM, theforge-request at mailman.qth.net wrote:
> From:
> "Andy Gladish" <gladish at cablerocket.com>
> Date:
> Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:25:35 -0700
>
> To:
> "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>
>
> In my case it proceeded to rust badly, within a couple months, through 
> two brushed coats. I don't have spray equipment and I like hand 
> brushing, spent some years painting wealthy peoples' homes. I thought 
> I did a good job degreasing with acetone....
> Used it over light rust on a gate and it seems to be alright, mostly- 
> but it sure hasn't lived up to what I was told about it...will have to 
> take it up with the maker, perhaps I missed something crucial.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Cindy and James" <jallcorn at suddenlink.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 2010 5:41 AM
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [TheForge] Permalac
>
>>
>> Re the comments on Permalac .  If the patina/finish is thick, as in
>> crusty, etc. for lack of better term, SPRAY the permalac using multiple
>> coats to penetrate and seal the patina.
>>
>> Many patinas are extremely fragile and must be treated with much care in
>> the sealing/lacquering process.  I have found this out via experience.
>>
>> James
>> ____________________________________________________________