[TheForge] Bronze

[Kim George]

I find that I have the tendency to hit that piece one time too many.
So by quenching I'm covering my bases. most of the bronzes are not
hurt by this and at the right temp it moves so much I figure some
stress  is inherent.

On 8/5/10, Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net> wrote:
> Jim;
> When you say you can't anneal Cu alloys without having
> cold worked it...
> Is that because it's already annealed from the hot
> working temperature?
> That's what i'd been assuming.
>
> James Binnion wrote:
>> On Aug 4, 2010, at 7:52 PM, Kim George wrote:
>>
>>>  You should also quench it
>>> about every third time. Re member when you do that you are annealing
>>> the piece.All nonferrous metals are like that.
>>
>> This is not right. Annealing of any metal or alloy comes from heating
>> it past the point of stress relief and into the recrystallization
>> temperature range. Where that temperature range is depends on the
>> physical properties of the alloy or metal and how much cold work you
>> have put into it, the more cold work the lower the temperature. Not
>> enough cold work and you will not be able to anneal it. If you are hot
>> forging the work and do not put any cold work into it you cannot
>> anneal it, you can heat it to the point of crystal growth (which is
>> generally a bad thing) but you will not get recrystallization.
>>
>> Some alloys care about how you cool them after annealing and some
>> don't. Some need a rapid quench some need a slow cooling and with some
>> it just don't matter. Non ferrous metals vary in what is needed just
>> as ferrous ones do. If in doubt look it up, the internet is full of
>> alloy data sheets that have hot work temperatures, annealing
>> temperatures and other useful info.
>>
>>
>>
>> James Binnion
>> jbin at well.com
>>
>>
>>
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-- 
Kim George

"Why for you try to bury me in cold,cold ground?"
     Taz