[TheForge] converting to natural gas

[Jerry Frost]

The sidearm isn't Ron's design. Originally it was 
Robert Grauman's take on a verbal description of my "T" 
burner. That isn't important, it's just FYI.

Don't let the difference in BTUs per cu/ft or gallon or 
whatever bother you, natural gas requires a lot less 
air so there's less nitrogen to heat. Overall it works 
very well.

The air:propane ratio for a neutral burn is 17.5:1

The air:nat gas ratio for a neutral burn is 10:1

So, try starting with a 0.040 or 0.045" mig tip and see 
how it works. If you can't get a tip off the shelf that 
tunes properly use torch tip cleaning files to enlarge 
the orifice a little at a time.

If all else fails gun burners are easy to make and 
tune.

You're lucky to have enough pressure available to run a 
naturally aspirated burner.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


From: "Kevin Gallagher" <anvil1999 at hotmail.com>



I have been running a propane forge based on Ron Reil's 
sidearm burner for several years now and it does a 
great job.  However, I just moved into a new shop which 
has a natural gas line in it.  Switching from bottle 
propane to shop gas would be very convenient but I have 
some questions and concerns.  I usually run the burners 
on propane at 5psi, the natural gas at the shop is 
12psi.  I know natural gas burns cooler than propane 
but given the increase in psi, do I need to increase 
the orifice in the burner?  (Currently it is a .035 mig 
tip.)  Most importantly, will a naturally aspirated 
burner ever get hot enough on natural gas at 12psi to 
forge weld?  If so, how do I need to modify my burners? 
Thanks



Kevin

www.muddyanvil.com