[TheForge] converting to natural gas

[Bruce Freeman]

My suggestion would be to try it and find out.  If you don't get the
heat you want, enlarge the orifice.

In any event, you should have an adjustable regulator between the
supply and the forge burner, so you can always turn down the pressure.

If this forge is to be connected to a "city" gas system, there may be
legal requirements how you do it.  Probably it would suffice to use a
shut-off like that on a gas furnace - i.e., if the burner flame goes
out, the gas supply shuts off.  This makes it a bit of a bitch to
relight, but it could save you from blowing up your shop.  And it will
allow you to have valid insurance.

At least, you may want a lockable shut-off valve on your gas line.

On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 7:02 PM, Kevin Gallagher <anvil1999 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have been running a propane forge based on Ron Reil's sidearm burner for several years now and it does a great job.  However, I just moved into a new shop which has a natural gas line in it.  Switching from bottle propane to shop gas would be very convenient but I have some questions and concerns.  I usually run the burners on propane at 5psi, the natural gas at the shop is 12psi.  I know natural gas burns cooler than propane but given the increase in psi, do I need to increase the orifice in the burner?  (Currently it is a .035 mig tip.)  Most importantly, will a naturally aspirated burner ever get hot enough on natural gas at 12psi to forge weld?  If so, how do I need to modify my burners?  Thanks
>
>
>
> Kevin
>
> www.muddyanvil.com
>
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-- 
Bruce
NJ

The total lack of evidence is the surest sign that the conspiracy is working.