[TheForge] Drilling angles etc

[Peter Hirst]

Why is it a one-time shot?  When setting iron in concrete, you want to set 
it in some kind of plastic material anyway:  lead, epoxy, thin-set, 
hydraulic cement.  You do *not* want just a friction fit in the concrete. 
Collects water and * rusts*.  Drill it way oversize, position the post to 
your specs, and pour in whatever goo you like working with best.  I favor 
epoxy, or for historic accuracy, lead.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Woolley" <wjec1 at verizon.net>
To: <mspencer at tallships.ca>; "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" 
<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2009 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Drilling angles etc


> What you guys are describing is working metal on a table.  The problem
> I'm trying to solve is drilling into an angled concrete wall like you
> would find on either side of a stoop in the city.  A one time shot to
> get it right.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike Spencer wrote:
>> Marc> The only trick I've used that works is to start the holes going
>> Marc> in straight.  Then when the hole is deep enough to "catch" the
>> Marc> bit at the desired angle, I stop and rotate the table or drill
>> Marc> head at the angle.
>>
>> It may work even better if you:
>>
>>     + Start the hole, with, say, a 3/8" drill, at right angles, but
>>       just enough to create a dimple, and just a tad -- 1/8" or so --
>>       "uphill" of the desired starting point,
>>
>>     + center-punch the correct location inside of, on the side of, the
>>       dimple,
>>
>>     + reset the workpiece to the desired angle, and
>>
>>     + drill a pilot hole, say 1/8" or so, where you center-punched.
>>
>> It will be easier to keep the 1/8" drill from drifting out of the
>> punch mark than it would be with your final-sized drill, which latter
>> has a much wider chisel edge. And because you're starting the pilot
>> hole on the side of the dimple, it will be closer to right angles
>> anyhow.
>>
>>
>> FWIW,
>> - Mike
>>
>>
>
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