[TheForge] temporary heat shield

[GRAF]

If you build it as proposed with two air gaps, of 1" or so, both with 
free convection airflow , you should be good to go.

Mike Graf

Bruce Freeman wrote:
> Terry,
>
> How temporary is temporary?   Your ideas sound like overkill to me,
> though I don't argue that you should be careful.
>
> When soldering copper pipe with a torch, one typically uses a simple
> metal shield to protect the wood nearby.  The metal should not touch
> the wood.  Some torches come with a C-shaped shield that clips onto
> the burner end.  It's a double-layer of steel and, in principle,
> protects burnables on the outside of the C from the flame which is on
> the inside of the C.
>
> My thought would be to get some sort of insulator, and put thin
> aluminum (like heavy-duty foil or flashing) on the surface toward the
> stove.  For example, build a portable "wall" from sheet metal studs,
> with wallboard on one side and sheet aluminum on the other, fiberglass
> insulation between.  Unfortunately, commercial fiberglass, while it
> won't support a flame, contains a burnable binder, so it would be best
> if it not touch the aluminum.  Fiberglass without binder would work,
> but may be difficult to work with and difficult to find.
>
> I don't think the polish on the aluminum is an issue.  Foil off a roll
> would probably do fine, but it would be easily torn.  Flashing or
> aluminum foil is probably shiny enough.  The difference in the total
> reflectivity between "shiny" and "mirror finish" is not all that
> great.  The latter you can see yourself in, the former reflects more
> diffusely.
>
> On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 3:43 AM, terry l. ridder <terrylr at blauedonau.com> wrote:
>   
>> hello;
>>
>> i am in need of a temporary heat shield and seeking some advice and
>> suggestions.
>>
>> for peace of mind i would like two heat shields spaced one each a part
>> with ceramic standoffs. the question is which is the better sheet metals
>> to use for the heat shields.
>>
>> highly polished aluminium would be the first choice since it would
>> reflect the unwanted heat , lightweight, and low in cost.
>>
>> where would i be able to obtain 2 sheets of 4x8 highly polished
>> aluminum?
>>
>> highly polished chromium steel would be the last choice since it would
>> refleact the unwanted heat at the trade offs of increased weight and
>> cost.
>>
>> where would i be able to obtain 2 sheets of 4x8 highly polished
>> chromium steel?
>>
>> the metal heat shield is temporary until we are able to construct a
>> warming tile heat shield later in the year.
>>
>> the metal will not be exposed to salt air/ocean air/open seas air for
>> that long of time so i am not worried about corrosion.
>>
>> poor ascii art below.
>>
>>   ==================+ +============== <-- metal overhead
>>        | <-- wooden frame bulkhead
>>        |            | |
>>        | l i        | | <-- double wall stove pipe duravent dvl leads to
>>        | l i        | |     small engine room exhaust stack.
>>        | l i        | |
>>        | l i     +------+
>>        | l i     |      | <-- harman oakwood wood stove
>>        | l i     |      |
>>        | l i     +------+
>>        | l i     /      \
>>   ================================= <-- metal deck
>>
>>        l -- 1st heat shield 1 inch above the deck and 1 inch from the
>>             wooden frame bulkhead.
>>
>>        i -- 2nd heat shield 1 inch above the deck and 1 inch from the
>>             1st heat shield.
>>
>>        the gap between the stove and the 2nd heat shield will be 12
>>        inches.
>>
>> --
>> terry l. ridder ><>
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