[TheForge] Foundations and shop design

[GRAF]

This may not be a good idea in your particular situation, but it is 
something I used when the intentional low spot in my piping became 
inaccessible when I moved some things around the shop.

Instead of a drain tee I installed a 1/8 "ID copper tube which 
terminated at a ball valve on the wall right next to a light switch. It 
is easy access and when I turn out , or on the lights I am reminded to 
drain the lines. It works like a champ. I installed another on the 
bottom of the compressor tank.

Mike Graf

Ekaterina Harrison wrote:
> Andy.
>
>>     What sort of steel?  Rebar?
>
> Actually it is some oid drill steel pipe, about 1 1/2'".
>
>>
>>     Air line IN the concrete?  This does not seem advisable to me.
>> Generally speaking, I would want the moisture trap(s) to be installed at
>> the lowest points on the "permanent" lines.  Otherwise moisture will be
>> able to collect in the lover points on the line and that will make all
>> good opportunity for corrosion.  If your lines are entombed in concrete,
>> well... you get the picture, no?
>>
> Good point.  The lines are pvc, but indeed will be at the lowest 
> point. I did not think about the water issue. We were mostly focused 
> on an easy way to get across big bay doors on both sides .
>
> Thank you for all the good advice.
>
> Ekaterina
>
> P.S. Could not help but notice the " lover points" typo. LOL
>
> On May 23, 2008, at 12:43 PM, theforge-request at mailman.qth.net wrote:
>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 13:56:13 -0400
>> From: Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Foundations and shop design
>> To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <4837053D.50000 at netlabs.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>>
>>
>> Ekaterina Harrison wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> We are just getting ready to a pour a cement floor in the new shop, we
>>> are building. I have the opportunity here to address and improve my 
>>> work
>>> environment. I am very excited about this. One of the things we are
>>> doing is running steel
>>
>>     What sort of steel?  Rebar?
>>
>>> under the cement across the whole length of the
>>> shop to to provide more grounding points around the shop and running
>>> pipe for airline hook ups and some conduit for stringing some wiring to
>>> the other side of the shop.
>>
>>     Air line IN the concrete?  This does not seem advisable to me.
>> Generally speaking, I would want the moisture trap(s) to be installed at
>> the lowest points on the "permanent" lines.  Otherwise moisture will be
>> able to collect in the lover points on the line and that will make all
>> good opportunity for corrosion.  If your lines are entombed in concrete,
>> well... you get the picture, no?
>>>
>>> One of the issues that I have been trying to figure out is the best way
>>> to mount a power hammer and treadle hammer.
>>
>>     The general recommendation is a very large concrete block with
>> cribbing.  I don't recall the precise design from Chambersburg, but for
>> a 250# hammer, the block was something of 5' thick by 3 wide and 4 deep
>> with timber at the bottom arranged grain horizontal in 2 layers, each
>> 90* to the other.  I know several people who have mounted hammers on far
>> less substantial foundations than this and have had no problems.
>>
>>> My current power hammer is
>>> bolted to the floor with a 1" rubber mat between it and the floor. As
>>> you might guess in the area around the hammer the floor has sustained
>>> some damage and I, also, have had a hell of a time with my tools 
>>> jumping
>>> of benches when I work the hammer. So, it seems quite clear that in the
>>> new shop the hammer should have its own independent foundation. We have
>>> been considering several options:
>>>
>>> We are planning to leave a graveled area just big enough for the 
>>> hammer(
>>> surrounded by the cement floor) or possibly cut out the section of 
>>> floor
>>> after we have figured out the best location for the hammer. And then :
>>>
>>> 1- independant cement foundation 1' thick
>>
>>     If you're going to do it, do it right.  I don't think 1' is really
>> enough for this sort of arrangement.  Consider that I am the sort to
>> over-engineer things such as these.  But consider that when it breaks,
>> it will invariably do so at the worst possible moment.  Better it never
>> break.
>>
>>     Another thing I would reconsider is pouring the floor before the
>> foundation.  I would give careful consideration to the proper location
>> of the hammer first, then build the foundation, then put in the 
>> floor. YMMV.
>>
>>
>>> Issues I have been wondering about:
>>> If hammer is set on timbers is there a balance issue to consider - 
>>> as in
>>> keeping it from tilting and moving?
>>> I know that the treadle hammer ,I made, I never did mount it to the
>>> floor, figuring that it was heavy enough it should stay put. I was
>>> surprised just how much it did move across the floor.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions, pro and cons, experiences of mounting hammers and
>>> general shop layout would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>     I am a firm believer in making sure potentially ornery machinery 
>> stays
>> put.  An unrestrained hammer can get plenty ornery.  As I said, do it
>> right the first time, don't cut corners and you can forget about it
>> pretty well forever.
>>
>
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