[TheForge] Repair job

[Larry Brown]

Sounds like lead wool. make a small cork screw packing puller  or hook from 
something like Stainless tig wire and see how deep you can pull the strands 
up then try to wiggle it as the wool doesn't pack well too deep
Larry Brown


At 07:29 PM 5/7/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>Wow.  So many replies, so many useful suggestions.  Thanks to all.  As 
>usual, as many solutions as smiths.  One of the things I love about this 
>craft!!!
>
>By way of explanation/clarification.  The lead around the nubs is in leaf 
>form, not melted and poured, so I am assuming there is at least a little 
>potential play in it somewhere.  The hole saw is actually an intriguing 
>idea:  this is literally a square peg in a round hole,and the hole saw 
>might just get the lead out.  Nubs are about 5/8 - 3/4 squ

>Heat:  yes, I was thinking a torch, a small heating tip concentrated on 
>the center of the exposed nub of iron.  Problem is yes the stone is a heat 
>sink and since this is lead, not solder, I am assuming a melting point of 
>620 F and change, not the 400 range. Anyone know what temperature short of 
>melting lead would soften  significantly to allow a little wiggle in the 
>iron nub? I really dont want to mess with rock and heat, and I think I 
>would rather destroy and replace the nubs than risk the stone.  But if it 
>could be done at a low temp, it might be an ok last resort.
>
>Slide hammer:  to pull only, straight up,  never to strike.  To pull 
>either on vise-grips clamped on the nub (they are about 1/4 above flush 
>cut)  or on a stud remover or bolt tapped and sunk in the nub.
>
>Brazing vs welding:  Since the joint is about 1/4 above flush it will be 
>exposed, and I would like to keep it as original as possible.  I would 
>also like the owner to be able to say that the  boot scrapers are all as 
>original as possible, even if the part below grade is a bit of an 
>abstraction.  I will be giving them a provenance with the repair, and they 
>will be giving the contractor the bill.
>
>Keziah