[TheForge] Repair job
David E. Smucker
davesmucker at hotmail.com
Wed May 7 11:00:10 EDT 2008
Peter, I think others have some good idea on removal. As to pure iron
welding rod for gas welding -- tie wire for rebar comes rather close to pure
iron. Most tie wire is 1006 or similar.
If you use Mike's idea of a short stud in the center then you might want to
braze rather than weld. The brass will be as strong as wrought iron and you
can also get some flow around the stud if you use the right flux.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Hirst" <saltydog335 at aol.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Repair job
I have been asked to repair a pair of antique boot scrapers that an idiot
contractor damaged in a sill replacement job. 1719 house with the matched
pair nicely leaded into the granite front step. In replacing the sill,
idiot (or worse) contractor cut the boot scrapers off (not quite flush)
rather than move the step. I need to remove the nubs, reweld them to the
scrapers and reinstall. Anyone have any experience with R&R of lead-mounted
iron in stone? I have thought of three ways to do the extraction of the
remaining nubs: (1) vise grips and slide hammer (preferred), (2) stud
extractor and slide hammer ( would rather avoid drilling out the original
nubs); (3) heat (prefer not to destroy the original lead or risk cracking
the stone: they are 3 inches from the edge.
Also, the weld itself seems tricky. I am inclined to use gas to reattach
the nubs: They must be butt welded and SOLID to retain shape and structural
integrity. Forge weld seems dicey considering the weld is at the point that
gets nearly all the stress in use. Is pure iron filler rod avaialble, or am
I ok with ordinary mild steel rod? One of the scrolls needs to be replaced,
but I am ok with a forge weld for that, since its a faggot weld along about
a 3" surface.
Any advice welcomed. I can post pics if there is interest in this project.
Keziah
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